Posted by fivesevenshooter:
FN FiveseveN Forums - Clarification of civilian-legal "Tactical" Five-seveNs: "Hi, I'm new to the board and really like what you guys have done with the place
I actually joined up here with the intent of selling my Five-seveN...little did I know what kind of mess I was getting into! My pistol happens to be a 'Tactical' model (quotes intentional), and it seems after reading the archives here that there's a little confusion regarding exactly what the heck a civilian-legal Tactical is.
When FN first started importing the Tactical/DAO pistols into the US, the ATF restricted them to military/law enforcement only. This meant that no matter what, even though the Five-seveN amounts to basically a semi-auto pistol, civilians couldn't own them. This was for a couple reasons. Firstly, the only mags produced by FN were of 20 round capacity. This was at the time of the magazine ban, so that was one limiting factor. Also, the ATF had some misgivings regarding the 5.7x28mm load. When they saw the Five-seveN, they saw a semi-auto pistol with 20 rounds of armor-piercing ammunition and no mag safety. In short, not something they really wanted to hit the streets. Hence the decision for the Tactical's military/law enforcement only status.
Eventually, FN started seeing a demand from law enforcement officers who wanted to buy personal weapons. This resulted in the development of the I.O.M. (Individual Officer Model). The plan was to allow law enforcement officers to purchase new I.O.M.s, provided they show proof of their officer status (essentially signing a little affidavit-like document).
When FN was going through the IOM approval process, the IOM as we know it did not exist. To get this through ATF and provide preliminary samples to reps, FN took several Tactical Five-seveNs, modified their 20-round m"
Wednesday, November 30, 2005
Tuesday, November 29, 2005
Monday, November 28, 2005
Wednesday, November 23, 2005
Tuesday, November 22, 2005
Monday, November 21, 2005
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Wednesday, November 16, 2005
don't just equipe the JTF2
don't just equipe the JTF2: "For fighting in close confines, the JTF-2 is now equipped with a new submachine gun. The Fabrique Nationale P-90 is a novel concept based upon an innovative needle-nosed bullet that is intended to penetrate the Kevlar fabric of modern body armour. The smaller calibre allows the P-90 to house up to 50 rounds in a clear plastic magazine. Not only does this give a soldier a longer, sustained fire capability, it also enables the shooter to know exactly how many bullets he has left in his magazine."
Tuesday, November 15, 2005
Monday, November 14, 2005
Wednesday, November 09, 2005
Extreme Shock - The World's Most Advanced Ammunition
The ASP rounds are interesting, and might serve as a model for something similar in 5.7x28mm
Extreme Shock - The World's Most Advanced Ammunition
Extreme Shock - The World's Most Advanced Ammunition
Tuesday, November 08, 2005
Monday, November 07, 2005
FN FiveseveN Forums - Subsonic Load?
Posted by Medula Oblongata:
FN FiveseveN Forums - Subsonic Load?: "Im in the business of knowing (and prosecuting those who don't) what AP ammo is, how it is used, and the legal ramifications thereof.
Here is some technical data from my lab manual issued by my agency:
�5.7x28mm weapon system�
FN P90 - firing on the range
SS190 (Armour Piercing) Standard Ball, 31 gr. FMJ, 2,133 fps. RESTRICTED SALE - AGENCY DROP-SHIP ONLY per FNH-USA company policy
L191 (Tracer), 31 gr. Tracer, 2,133 fps. RESTRICTED SALE - AGENCY DROP-SHIP ONLY per FNH-USA company policy
SS192 (Softpoint) Duty/Training, 28 gr. JHP, 2,034 fps. 50 box/2100 case Discontinued
T194 (Duty/Training), 28 gr. JHP, 2,034 fps. 50 box/2100 case Discontinued
SB193 (Subsonic), 55 gr. FMJ, 984 fps. RESTRICTED SALE - AGENCY DROP-SHIP ONLY per FNH-USA company policy
SS196SR, 40 gr. V-Max (Replaces the SS192 round) Not sold where prohibited by law.
Here is a cross sectional cutaway of the SB193 round, it is quite obvious that it lacks ALL attributes that would classify it as AP. But the absolute kicker in this situation is the fact that as it IS a 22 cal projectile, even if it were designed solely for a pistol, it is EXEMPT from the AP law because the AP law states specifically
' (ii) a full jacketed projectile larger than .22 caliber designed and
intended for use in a handgun and whose jacket has a weight of more than 25
percent of the total weight of the projectile...' Therefore, no matter how you cut it, it is not regulated BECAUSE IT IS NOT LARGER THAN 22 CALIBER. FN Herstal, as a policy, has decided not to sell to the public. There is no law that would stop them from doing so.
I grow tired of the argument. To quote a holl"
FN FiveseveN Forums - Subsonic Load?: "Im in the business of knowing (and prosecuting those who don't) what AP ammo is, how it is used, and the legal ramifications thereof.
Here is some technical data from my lab manual issued by my agency:
�5.7x28mm weapon system�
FN P90 - firing on the range
SS190 (Armour Piercing) Standard Ball, 31 gr. FMJ, 2,133 fps. RESTRICTED SALE - AGENCY DROP-SHIP ONLY per FNH-USA company policy
L191 (Tracer), 31 gr. Tracer, 2,133 fps. RESTRICTED SALE - AGENCY DROP-SHIP ONLY per FNH-USA company policy
SS192 (Softpoint) Duty/Training, 28 gr. JHP, 2,034 fps. 50 box/2100 case Discontinued
T194 (Duty/Training), 28 gr. JHP, 2,034 fps. 50 box/2100 case Discontinued
SB193 (Subsonic), 55 gr. FMJ, 984 fps. RESTRICTED SALE - AGENCY DROP-SHIP ONLY per FNH-USA company policy
SS196SR, 40 gr. V-Max (Replaces the SS192 round) Not sold where prohibited by law.
Here is a cross sectional cutaway of the SB193 round, it is quite obvious that it lacks ALL attributes that would classify it as AP. But the absolute kicker in this situation is the fact that as it IS a 22 cal projectile, even if it were designed solely for a pistol, it is EXEMPT from the AP law because the AP law states specifically
' (ii) a full jacketed projectile larger than .22 caliber designed and
intended for use in a handgun and whose jacket has a weight of more than 25
percent of the total weight of the projectile...' Therefore, no matter how you cut it, it is not regulated BECAUSE IT IS NOT LARGER THAN 22 CALIBER. FN Herstal, as a policy, has decided not to sell to the public. There is no law that would stop them from doing so.
I grow tired of the argument. To quote a holl"
Sunday, November 06, 2005
FN FiveseveN Forums - Mean Green Clean Brass
Posted by Medula Oblongata:
FN FiveseveN Forums - Mean Green Clean Brass: "I have been searching for a way to quickly clean the 5.7x28mm brass. As we all know, with laquer coated cases, dirt and grime tends to stick to the laquer coating more easily than to brass and this is especially true with sizing lubes. Not wanting to get grime and lube all over the place, I set about looking for a way to clean my cases.
I started with dry corn cob in my vibratory tumbler. It sorta worked, but tended to thin the laquer coating to almost nothing within two reloadings and took a very long time. Putting cleaning agents in with the corn cob only exaserbated the mess and the amount of garbage stuck to the cases. I even tried the Iosso liquid case cleaner, which made the cases really brite but also removed about half of the laquer coat. So, after six months of occaisonal experimentation, I decided to put warm water and SIMPLE GREEN in my tumbler... It works EXCEPTIONALLY well without damaging the laquer coating.
If you don't have a wet media tumbler, just put the cases in a container with warm water and Simple Green at a ratio of 10 parts water to 1 part Simple Green for heavy cleaning, or 30 parts water to 1 part SG for lite cleaning. Agitate the cases with your fingers in a sideways fanning motion, and in 2 - 3 minutes, your brass is clean, inside and out. When in the tumbler, even the primer pockets are much cleaner and most of the garbage left falls out when dry with a few taps on a hard surface. It only takes a second to clean the primer pockets on my RCBS case prep center now instead of the usual 4 - 5 seconds before cleaning in Simple Green.
Give it a try, Simple Green WILL NOT harm the brass or laquer coating, and rinses clean with no residue. I have been doing this for a few weeks now and have proven on my Agencie's 300x stereo microscope that repeated"
Follow-up by libertyman:
Have you tried Simple Green in an ultrasonic cleaner? It works amazingly well.
FN FiveseveN Forums - Mean Green Clean Brass: "I have been searching for a way to quickly clean the 5.7x28mm brass. As we all know, with laquer coated cases, dirt and grime tends to stick to the laquer coating more easily than to brass and this is especially true with sizing lubes. Not wanting to get grime and lube all over the place, I set about looking for a way to clean my cases.
I started with dry corn cob in my vibratory tumbler. It sorta worked, but tended to thin the laquer coating to almost nothing within two reloadings and took a very long time. Putting cleaning agents in with the corn cob only exaserbated the mess and the amount of garbage stuck to the cases. I even tried the Iosso liquid case cleaner, which made the cases really brite but also removed about half of the laquer coat. So, after six months of occaisonal experimentation, I decided to put warm water and SIMPLE GREEN in my tumbler... It works EXCEPTIONALLY well without damaging the laquer coating.
If you don't have a wet media tumbler, just put the cases in a container with warm water and Simple Green at a ratio of 10 parts water to 1 part Simple Green for heavy cleaning, or 30 parts water to 1 part SG for lite cleaning. Agitate the cases with your fingers in a sideways fanning motion, and in 2 - 3 minutes, your brass is clean, inside and out. When in the tumbler, even the primer pockets are much cleaner and most of the garbage left falls out when dry with a few taps on a hard surface. It only takes a second to clean the primer pockets on my RCBS case prep center now instead of the usual 4 - 5 seconds before cleaning in Simple Green.
Give it a try, Simple Green WILL NOT harm the brass or laquer coating, and rinses clean with no residue. I have been doing this for a few weeks now and have proven on my Agencie's 300x stereo microscope that repeated"
Follow-up by libertyman:
Have you tried Simple Green in an ultrasonic cleaner? It works amazingly well.
Friday, November 04, 2005
Thursday, November 03, 2005
Dry-fire Practice Magazine - GlockStore.com
I might recycle (modify) one of my 10-round FsN magazines and spray-paint it safety blue or safety orange.
Dry-fire Practice Magazine - GlockStore.com
Dry-fire Practice Magazine - GlockStore.com
Makarov.com - Technical Information wax bullets for target practice
Makarov.com - Technical Information: "Wax Bullets for Indoor Shooting
Want to shoot your Makarov indoors or in the backyard without freaking out the neighbors? Try casting your own wax bullets, then use a primer-only case to shoot them.
Don't Want to Cast Your Own?
We also carry X-ring rubber bullet sets. The only downside is that you need to recover the rubber bullets, clean them and reuse them. See the On-Line Shopping Cart Makarov Page for how to order.
Here's how to mold them:
Get a Lee Makarov bullet mold - Midway carries them and we might look into offering them.
Melt some candle wax from old candle stubs in a double boiler made of an old pot filled partially with water and a tin can as the inside pot. You don't need much and it's more efficient if you only melt a little at a time.
Pour the wax into the mold. If there's a top sprue plate, move it aside and pour directly into the mold. Then move the shield into place while the wax is still liquid. I found I didn't need to lube the molds for the bullets to drop free later.
Wait about 1 minute...this time becomes longer as the mold metal warms up and it takes longer to solidify. An ice water bath will compensate for that and increase your casting rate.
Open the mold and push the bullets out. Be careful not to put too much pressure on them yet or they'll deform. Put them in the fridge to completely cool, especially in hot weather.
Here's how to shoot them:
Take the appropriate brass and run it through the resizer/decapper and reprime the case. Run the case through the belling die being careful not to open it up too far.
Be sure the belling stage did not drop any powder into the case. You want the primer only.
Push the wax bullet into the case. Make sure you don't seat it to far. Since more bullet molds oversize the bullets in anticipation of a bullet s"
Want to shoot your Makarov indoors or in the backyard without freaking out the neighbors? Try casting your own wax bullets, then use a primer-only case to shoot them.
Don't Want to Cast Your Own?
We also carry X-ring rubber bullet sets. The only downside is that you need to recover the rubber bullets, clean them and reuse them. See the On-Line Shopping Cart Makarov Page for how to order.
Here's how to mold them:
Get a Lee Makarov bullet mold - Midway carries them and we might look into offering them.
Melt some candle wax from old candle stubs in a double boiler made of an old pot filled partially with water and a tin can as the inside pot. You don't need much and it's more efficient if you only melt a little at a time.
Pour the wax into the mold. If there's a top sprue plate, move it aside and pour directly into the mold. Then move the shield into place while the wax is still liquid. I found I didn't need to lube the molds for the bullets to drop free later.
Wait about 1 minute...this time becomes longer as the mold metal warms up and it takes longer to solidify. An ice water bath will compensate for that and increase your casting rate.
Open the mold and push the bullets out. Be careful not to put too much pressure on them yet or they'll deform. Put them in the fridge to completely cool, especially in hot weather.
Here's how to shoot them:
Take the appropriate brass and run it through the resizer/decapper and reprime the case. Run the case through the belling die being careful not to open it up too far.
Be sure the belling stage did not drop any powder into the case. You want the primer only.
Push the wax bullet into the case. Make sure you don't seat it to far. Since more bullet molds oversize the bullets in anticipation of a bullet s"
Graybeard Outdoors :: View topic - How do you make a snap cap ?
Graybeard Outdoors :: View topic - How do you make a snap cap ?
Gun Runner:
I made mine out of a pencil erasser. Rounded it to fit with a piece of sand paper, a dab of super glue around the sides and base.
Vietvet:
I just fill the primer pocket with silicone sealer.
gunnut69:
The silicone sealer works better if there's a piece of brass or steel glued over it to better resist the firing pin..
2520:
Fill the primer pocket with hot glue. Lasts a long time. I seat a flat base bullet upside down and flush to the case mouth to give it some heft and to be sure I don't ever put in some powder. I paint the case head with red nail polish to identify it as a snap cap.
BoarHunter:
I agree with the above post telling you need to put some brass (just saw a piece of brass rod or brass screw) to take the blow. Just the hot glue or the silicone will not absorb the striker energy and it will be as dry firing.
Epoxy works better as it is stronger.
Seat a bullet and crimp it hard but drill holes in the case to identify it as a dummy.
Gun Runner:
I made mine out of a pencil erasser. Rounded it to fit with a piece of sand paper, a dab of super glue around the sides and base.
Vietvet:
I just fill the primer pocket with silicone sealer.
gunnut69:
The silicone sealer works better if there's a piece of brass or steel glued over it to better resist the firing pin..
2520:
Fill the primer pocket with hot glue. Lasts a long time. I seat a flat base bullet upside down and flush to the case mouth to give it some heft and to be sure I don't ever put in some powder. I paint the case head with red nail polish to identify it as a snap cap.
BoarHunter:
I agree with the above post telling you need to put some brass (just saw a piece of brass rod or brass screw) to take the blow. Just the hot glue or the silicone will not absorb the striker energy and it will be as dry firing.
Epoxy works better as it is stronger.
Seat a bullet and crimp it hard but drill holes in the case to identify it as a dummy.
Post your Homemade Tools for Guns [Archive] - THR
Posted by Brainx:
Post your Homemade Tools for Guns [Archive] - THR: "I don't have a digital camera but my home-made snap-cap-rod is probably not worthy of a great photo.
At any rate, for all of my milsurp rifles I have a wood dowel rod that I put down the muzzle after cleaning to allow for the dry fire before putting the gun away. On the end of the rod is glued a pencil eraser. Insert the rod, push hard and dry fire.
I also have one for my shot guns. The rod is a piece of rigid copper pipe with a circular piece of hard rubber attached to the end."
Post your Homemade Tools for Guns [Archive] - THR: "I don't have a digital camera but my home-made snap-cap-rod is probably not worthy of a great photo.
At any rate, for all of my milsurp rifles I have a wood dowel rod that I put down the muzzle after cleaning to allow for the dry fire before putting the gun away. On the end of the rod is glued a pencil eraser. Insert the rod, push hard and dry fire.
I also have one for my shot guns. The rod is a piece of rigid copper pipe with a circular piece of hard rubber attached to the end."
HuntAmerica.com: What's your best homemade 'Snap Cap' assembly?
HuntAmerica.com: What's your best homemade 'Snap Cap' assembly?
Some snippets:
Question posed by Ed:
What did you use in place of the primer? Silicone cauking? An eraser tip? What?
How has it held up?
Posted by 41fan:
Buy a stick of 1/4" nylon or delrin (hobby shop) rod.
Run a 1/4x28 die down it.
Drill and tap the case for 1/4x28 and screw the rod in and face it off.
Even if you count the price of tools, a twenty dollar bill will supply snap caps for a lifetime in all calibers bigger than a 32 ACP.
Posted later by 41fan:
Now I have a little more time to explain.
I specified 1/4x28 for the thread. I tried 1/4x20 first but it seemed like it didn't hold up near as long and loosened too easy. (Teflon tape or silicone sealant will hold it in.)
Once you see how the material last you might want to make some really good ones by seating a bullet in the drilled case and squirting in a gob of silicone sealant then screwing in the rod all the way to the bullet or shoulder. They weigh close enough to be feeding dummies and even look good.
I found a translucent nylon at an Army Surplus store about 1970 that lasted better than anything else I’ve seen since. There was only a foot of it…..:(
You’ll know if its really good if its hard to thread in a die. The best material is too hard to dent with a thumbnail and seems to “heal-up” when cut by the die.
Ed:
Sounds good. So I guess the thing to do is to thread the entire rod at once (shouldn't be a big deal, I wouldn't think), seat a bullet, squirt in the silicone caulking (through the drilled/tapped hole), thread in the rod, and snip it off flush with tin snips or whatever. I don't have a drill press or a lathe, but I could probably do a fair job of slightly recessing the rod/primer by carefully using my RCBS Case Prep Center's primer-pocket uniformer. I could probably get pretty exact, actually, by getting some small washers and setting them over the uniformer's cutter.
BW piped in:
I've used old tire sidewalls and taken a hole punch to them. You can trim the plugs to fit for length and just glue them in with emblem cement. When and if they go to pot just punch em out with the decapper and replace them.
booger had a thought:
Russ, another trick, not as sophisticated as Jack's, is to put a dab of AcraGlas gel or, for that matter, epoxy in the primer pocket. This lasts a couple hundred snaps and is easy to replace and repair. Might work as a stopgap while you assemble the Belk's Super-duper Snap Caps (patent pending).
Some snippets:
Question posed by Ed:
What did you use in place of the primer? Silicone cauking? An eraser tip? What?
How has it held up?
Posted by 41fan:
Buy a stick of 1/4" nylon or delrin (hobby shop) rod.
Run a 1/4x28 die down it.
Drill and tap the case for 1/4x28 and screw the rod in and face it off.
Even if you count the price of tools, a twenty dollar bill will supply snap caps for a lifetime in all calibers bigger than a 32 ACP.
Posted later by 41fan:
Now I have a little more time to explain.
I specified 1/4x28 for the thread. I tried 1/4x20 first but it seemed like it didn't hold up near as long and loosened too easy. (Teflon tape or silicone sealant will hold it in.)
Once you see how the material last you might want to make some really good ones by seating a bullet in the drilled case and squirting in a gob of silicone sealant then screwing in the rod all the way to the bullet or shoulder. They weigh close enough to be feeding dummies and even look good.
I found a translucent nylon at an Army Surplus store about 1970 that lasted better than anything else I’ve seen since. There was only a foot of it…..:(
You’ll know if its really good if its hard to thread in a die. The best material is too hard to dent with a thumbnail and seems to “heal-up” when cut by the die.
Ed:
Sounds good. So I guess the thing to do is to thread the entire rod at once (shouldn't be a big deal, I wouldn't think), seat a bullet, squirt in the silicone caulking (through the drilled/tapped hole), thread in the rod, and snip it off flush with tin snips or whatever. I don't have a drill press or a lathe, but I could probably do a fair job of slightly recessing the rod/primer by carefully using my RCBS Case Prep Center's primer-pocket uniformer. I could probably get pretty exact, actually, by getting some small washers and setting them over the uniformer's cutter.
BW piped in:
I've used old tire sidewalls and taken a hole punch to them. You can trim the plugs to fit for length and just glue them in with emblem cement. When and if they go to pot just punch em out with the decapper and replace them.
booger had a thought:
Russ, another trick, not as sophisticated as Jack's, is to put a dab of AcraGlas gel or, for that matter, epoxy in the primer pocket. This lasts a couple hundred snaps and is easy to replace and repair. Might work as a stopgap while you assemble the Belk's Super-duper Snap Caps (patent pending).
Wednesday, November 02, 2005
Grip Reduction & Custom Beavertails
Not 100% applicable, but the general techniques might be applicable.
Brownells - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories and Gunsmithing Tools
Brownells - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories and Gunsmithing Tools
Tuesday, November 01, 2005
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