South Park Pundit » Blog Archive » DIY: Plastic More Fantastic
Do it yourself work on polymer pistols. Howto.
Showing posts with label Howto/Manual. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Howto/Manual. Show all posts
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Friday, January 19, 2007
AR15.COM :: Forums :: Topic :: Make your own TAC SLING for 10 bucks! Pics and detailed instructions inside 56k warning
AR15.COM :: Forums :: Topic :: Make your own TAC SLING for 10 bucks! Pics and detailed instructions inside 56k warning
Nice article with pics on the creation and use of a three point sling.
Nice article with pics on the creation and use of a three point sling.
Displaying ammo collection. How to do it?
Posted by marlinman93:
Displaying ammo collection. How to do it?: "It's best to lay them out on a piece of colored hard board, or heavy cardboard. Find a large picture frame first, that will hold the number of cartridges you want to display. When you lay them all out, take a Sharpie, or fine tip pen, and put a dot on either side of each case. This will give you a mark to drill a small hole for a retaining wire. After drilling a hole for each cartridge, get some small copper wire, and push it through the holes, securing the cartridge to the board by twisting the wire together on the back.
Rainbow or circular patterns look better than straight rows. If you need more room, a small half circle inside of a larger half circle will get them all in. Try to type up labels to glue on beside each cartridge, to identify the caliber. This is similar to what the ammo makers did with their bullet boards in the past. If you want to get really creative, you could get a picture of a big game anaimal, and have it blown up as a background for your display board.
Good luck!"
Displaying ammo collection. How to do it?: "It's best to lay them out on a piece of colored hard board, or heavy cardboard. Find a large picture frame first, that will hold the number of cartridges you want to display. When you lay them all out, take a Sharpie, or fine tip pen, and put a dot on either side of each case. This will give you a mark to drill a small hole for a retaining wire. After drilling a hole for each cartridge, get some small copper wire, and push it through the holes, securing the cartridge to the board by twisting the wire together on the back.
Rainbow or circular patterns look better than straight rows. If you need more room, a small half circle inside of a larger half circle will get them all in. Try to type up labels to glue on beside each cartridge, to identify the caliber. This is similar to what the ammo makers did with their bullet boards in the past. If you want to get really creative, you could get a picture of a big game anaimal, and have it blown up as a background for your display board.
Good luck!"
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Saturday, December 16, 2006
Thursday, October 12, 2006
FN FiveseveN Forums - Form 1 is APPROVED!!!
FN FiveseveN Forums - Form 1 is APPROVED!!!: "In the interest of just gettin' him the info......
Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrs
Hi
1. Original manufacturer... since I am doing the sbr conversion, would that be me or since the original rifle manuf. is FN would it be them? Fabrique Nationale. Herstal, Belgium.
2. The type of firearm... do I put down SBR or do I spell out ... short barreled rifle? Spell it out.......
3. Caliber is 5.7 x 28... That's what the gun says......
4. Model is PS90 That's what the gun says......
5. Length... of barrel... 10.5? overall ... 18.5? Used 10.3' and 19.7' -- same info FN specs for the P90
6. Why make firearm? All legal Purposes? That works......
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Always triple check your paperwork for completeness before sending it.
Thanks
HTH!"
Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrs
Hi
1. Original manufacturer... since I am doing the sbr conversion, would that be me or since the original rifle manuf. is FN would it be them? Fabrique Nationale. Herstal, Belgium.
2. The type of firearm... do I put down SBR or do I spell out ... short barreled rifle? Spell it out.......
3. Caliber is 5.7 x 28... That's what the gun says......
4. Model is PS90 That's what the gun says......
5. Length... of barrel... 10.5? overall ... 18.5? Used 10.3' and 19.7' -- same info FN specs for the P90
6. Why make firearm? All legal Purposes? That works......
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Always triple check your paperwork for completeness before sending it.
Thanks
HTH!"
FN FiveseveN Forums - Changing the FsN Slidecover
FN FiveseveN Forums - Help!!: "Here you go.
1. Remove magazine and unload weapon.
2. Remove magazine and unload weapon again in case you skipped step one.
3. Remove the slide.
4. Remove the barrel.
5. Set the slide down on its right side, so the FN stamp is facing you.
6. With a punch and hammer/mallet punch the Slide Cover pin from left to right
7. Remove the pin--note the knurled end is on the right side when you replace it.
8. Remove the slide cover starting from the rear NOT MUZZLE, you may need to
pry slightly to get it started.
9. Remove the cross pin.
10. Remove the firing pin and spring.
11. Once the cover is off remove the loaded chamber indicator and spring so you
don't lose it.
12. TAKE NOTICE OF THE SPRING THAT IS UNDER THE REAR SIGHT
OF YOUR PISTOL YOU MUST NOT LOSE THIS SPRING, Your pistol
will not function without it!!! This is held in place by the rear sight base plate and will fly off when the rear sight is removed. When you remove the rear sight cover
it with a cloth or something that will catch the spring. DO NOT LOSE IT.
13. Remove front and rear sights with a punch and mallet
14. Install the firing pin w/spring and cross pin.
15. Lay the slide upright and replace the small spring into the hole and
replace the chamber indicator and spring.
16. Place the new slide cover on muzzle first. Ensure that the tiny rear spring is in
place before you press it on completely.
17. Replace the slide cover pin right to left
18. Replace barrel, slide, and magazine.
And there you have it. "
1. Remove magazine and unload weapon.
2. Remove magazine and unload weapon again in case you skipped step one.
3. Remove the slide.
4. Remove the barrel.
5. Set the slide down on its right side, so the FN stamp is facing you.
6. With a punch and hammer/mallet punch the Slide Cover pin from left to right
7. Remove the pin--note the knurled end is on the right side when you replace it.
8. Remove the slide cover starting from the rear NOT MUZZLE, you may need to
pry slightly to get it started.
9. Remove the cross pin.
10. Remove the firing pin and spring.
11. Once the cover is off remove the loaded chamber indicator and spring so you
don't lose it.
12. TAKE NOTICE OF THE SPRING THAT IS UNDER THE REAR SIGHT
OF YOUR PISTOL YOU MUST NOT LOSE THIS SPRING, Your pistol
will not function without it!!! This is held in place by the rear sight base plate and will fly off when the rear sight is removed. When you remove the rear sight cover
it with a cloth or something that will catch the spring. DO NOT LOSE IT.
13. Remove front and rear sights with a punch and mallet
14. Install the firing pin w/spring and cross pin.
15. Lay the slide upright and replace the small spring into the hole and
replace the chamber indicator and spring.
16. Place the new slide cover on muzzle first. Ensure that the tiny rear spring is in
place before you press it on completely.
17. Replace the slide cover pin right to left
18. Replace barrel, slide, and magazine.
And there you have it. "
Monday, August 14, 2006
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Laserex Laser Install (with text description and pictures)
Posted by U378:
Gentlemen, I do appreciate your input and warning about the lower power. I am sure the military grade laser is much better. I was already aware of the power restrictions but I purchased one anyway to evaluate it's performance. I wanted to determine whether or not it is of good enough quality to install in my PS90.
Allow me to share my experience:
I purchased the laser from Den Trinity after reading on their websight that it is in fact a Laserex P90 laser. I understood that it is not the military power model but that it is identical in every other aspect. The laser arrived in packaging marked P90 Laserex with an additional Quality Endorsed Company Standards Australia sticker. I opened the package and compared the laser system I received to the one in the photo of the split open P90 LV shown in this forum. The components are identical which is what I expected since it is the same Laserex P90 laser system with a lower power (civilian legal) laser. I did notice a minor improvement on the one I received. The wires leading from the activation button to the laser power setting switch were bound in a flexible tube instead of loose. I also observed that the battery compartment for the one I received has a black finish. The battery compartment for the one in the P90 LV photo appears identical without the black finish. The black finish on the one I received doesn't appear that durable though. However, I don't know of any finish that sticks to brass very well.
After powering it up, these were my observations:
The laser has three settings (Low, Off, High). It uses one 3V CR123A lithium battery (Standard size like in the Surefire and Streamlight lights). First I tested it indoors on the low setting. It appeared as bright as just about any other laser dot device. I then tested it indoors on the high setting and the laser was extremely bright. I would definitely say the brightness level compares to the Streamlight M6 laser. Indoors in a dark room, the laser was bright enough to light your area. The next day I tested it outdoors in Texas daylight. At a distance of about 100 feet, I could still see the dot on the side of a red building. However, the dot was not readily seen. At around 50 to 75 feet in daylight it was quickly spotted on a variety of different backgrounds. I did not test it any further than 100 feet.
My intention for purchasing the laser was to use it indoors or in low light environments where the stock sight is not at it's best. I am already satisfied with the performance of the stock sight in the daylight. I am not satisfied with the performance of the stock sight indoors or in low light environments. I believe this laser will "fill the gap" for me. It may not meet your requirments but it meets mine and maybe some others.
I do have photos of the laser I received but I can't post them. If someone would like to post them, I'd be happy to email them to you.
Posted by btown02: The information supplied by U378:
1. The stock must be disassembled by removing the
crossbolts. You will notice the strengthening ribs in
the stock which were not present in the earlier P90 LV
photo. The stock already has slots in place for the
laser wires.
2. I placed the front laser "cap" on the end of the
stock to mark it's postition. When drilling on the
seam, I had to use a very small drill bit and increase
the size gradually to prevent binding. I increased
the size till the laser "lens hood" could just fit
through the hole.
3. After inserting the "laser hood", I placed some
folded newspaper behind it to hold it in place and
reassembled the stock. With the hood held firmly in
place. I pressed the laser "cap" on the hood to
determine the position of the three cap mounting
screws which thread directly into the laser inside the
stock.
4. I then opened the stock and placed the laser inside
to determine the placement for the "power setting
selector." I marked the location, reassembled the
stock, and drilled the seam (again increasing bit size
gradually) until the appropriate size was achieved.
Keep in mind, the top surface of the power setting
selector must be mounted flush with the top of the
stock. Otherwise, it will bind when the receiver is
inserted. The way I accomplished this was by
recessing the top of the hole slightly with a
reloading case deburring tool.
5. I then marked the locations for the laser actuator
button and battery casing. I approximated the exact
location for the button after studying the P90 LV
photos found on the interenet. The battery casing
mount slides on one of the bolt guides so I just lined
it up and marked it.
6. After reassembling the stock, I carefully drilled
the button hole and battery casing hole (again
increasing bit size gradually). The battery casing
hole is quite large and I did not feel comfortable
using that large of a bit on the seam. So, I slightly
increased the size of the hole with a half round file
until the casing fit snug.
7. I opened the stock again, inserted the laser
components, and reassembled the stock.
I am certain that I did not use the correct technical
names for the components. But, I'm sure you can
figure out what I'm talking about.
The laser adjusts for windage and elevation by
tightening and loosening the front cap mounting
screws.
Also, just a warning. The plastic cuts and files VERY
easy. Be careful not to make the holes too big.
And the disclaimer..... I am not a machininst or a
professional gunsmith. Use this information at your
own risk.
Gentlemen, I do appreciate your input and warning about the lower power. I am sure the military grade laser is much better. I was already aware of the power restrictions but I purchased one anyway to evaluate it's performance. I wanted to determine whether or not it is of good enough quality to install in my PS90.
Allow me to share my experience:
I purchased the laser from Den Trinity after reading on their websight that it is in fact a Laserex P90 laser. I understood that it is not the military power model but that it is identical in every other aspect. The laser arrived in packaging marked P90 Laserex with an additional Quality Endorsed Company Standards Australia sticker. I opened the package and compared the laser system I received to the one in the photo of the split open P90 LV shown in this forum. The components are identical which is what I expected since it is the same Laserex P90 laser system with a lower power (civilian legal) laser. I did notice a minor improvement on the one I received. The wires leading from the activation button to the laser power setting switch were bound in a flexible tube instead of loose. I also observed that the battery compartment for the one I received has a black finish. The battery compartment for the one in the P90 LV photo appears identical without the black finish. The black finish on the one I received doesn't appear that durable though. However, I don't know of any finish that sticks to brass very well.
After powering it up, these were my observations:
The laser has three settings (Low, Off, High). It uses one 3V CR123A lithium battery (Standard size like in the Surefire and Streamlight lights). First I tested it indoors on the low setting. It appeared as bright as just about any other laser dot device. I then tested it indoors on the high setting and the laser was extremely bright. I would definitely say the brightness level compares to the Streamlight M6 laser. Indoors in a dark room, the laser was bright enough to light your area. The next day I tested it outdoors in Texas daylight. At a distance of about 100 feet, I could still see the dot on the side of a red building. However, the dot was not readily seen. At around 50 to 75 feet in daylight it was quickly spotted on a variety of different backgrounds. I did not test it any further than 100 feet.
My intention for purchasing the laser was to use it indoors or in low light environments where the stock sight is not at it's best. I am already satisfied with the performance of the stock sight in the daylight. I am not satisfied with the performance of the stock sight indoors or in low light environments. I believe this laser will "fill the gap" for me. It may not meet your requirments but it meets mine and maybe some others.
I do have photos of the laser I received but I can't post them. If someone would like to post them, I'd be happy to email them to you.
Posted by btown02: The information supplied by U378:
1. The stock must be disassembled by removing the
crossbolts. You will notice the strengthening ribs in
the stock which were not present in the earlier P90 LV
photo. The stock already has slots in place for the
laser wires.
2. I placed the front laser "cap" on the end of the
stock to mark it's postition. When drilling on the
seam, I had to use a very small drill bit and increase
the size gradually to prevent binding. I increased
the size till the laser "lens hood" could just fit
through the hole.
3. After inserting the "laser hood", I placed some
folded newspaper behind it to hold it in place and
reassembled the stock. With the hood held firmly in
place. I pressed the laser "cap" on the hood to
determine the position of the three cap mounting
screws which thread directly into the laser inside the
stock.
4. I then opened the stock and placed the laser inside
to determine the placement for the "power setting
selector." I marked the location, reassembled the
stock, and drilled the seam (again increasing bit size
gradually) until the appropriate size was achieved.
Keep in mind, the top surface of the power setting
selector must be mounted flush with the top of the
stock. Otherwise, it will bind when the receiver is
inserted. The way I accomplished this was by
recessing the top of the hole slightly with a
reloading case deburring tool.
5. I then marked the locations for the laser actuator
button and battery casing. I approximated the exact
location for the button after studying the P90 LV
photos found on the interenet. The battery casing
mount slides on one of the bolt guides so I just lined
it up and marked it.
6. After reassembling the stock, I carefully drilled
the button hole and battery casing hole (again
increasing bit size gradually). The battery casing
hole is quite large and I did not feel comfortable
using that large of a bit on the seam. So, I slightly
increased the size of the hole with a half round file
until the casing fit snug.
7. I opened the stock again, inserted the laser
components, and reassembled the stock.
I am certain that I did not use the correct technical
names for the components. But, I'm sure you can
figure out what I'm talking about.
The laser adjusts for windage and elevation by
tightening and loosening the front cap mounting
screws.
Also, just a warning. The plastic cuts and files VERY
easy. Be careful not to make the holes too big.
And the disclaimer..... I am not a machininst or a
professional gunsmith. Use this information at your
own risk.
Tuesday, June 27, 2006
PS90 SBR Howto
Various howtos. Your mileage may vary. Use at your own risk. Do not blame me if you're unhappy with the results. Do not blame the original posters if you are unhappy with the results. Look to your own actions and own them and realize that happiness comes from within.
UPDATE 07/21/2006 CMMG has posted detailed instructions (with lots of pictures) on the FiveseveN Forum - READ THIS FIRST: http://fivesevenforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41652&postcount=1
JUST IN CASE YOU MISSED IT - READ CMMG's HOWTO in the link above.
Posted by tctrld:
Tools:
Dremel
15mm wrench
Vise
Punch
1. Disassemble PS90. Time for this: 1:00 minute
2. I used my dremel to reveal the other side of the pin on the shroud. (using a cutting attachment in an 'scraping' motion) - time for this 1:00 minute
3. Tap out the pin using a punch and hammer. Time for this: 0:10 seconds
4. I mounted the receiver assembly in my vise, vice jaws grabbing on to the flash hider. Use a 15mm wrench and apply force. NOTE! Turn clock-wise as it's reverse threaded. Barrel separated from flash hider after a few light taps with the palm of my hand. Time for this: 1:00 minute
5. Re-assemble with CMMG 10.3" barrel and P90 flash hider. Time for this 1:00 minute.
It is easier that it looks/sounds. The barrel has milled flats at the breach end for a 15mm wrench. The barrel screws into the flash hider only. Nothing screws into the receiver. The barrel assembly is under spring load between it and the receiver. That's why you can push on the muzzle and have it give for about 1/4"
Posted by fenemij:
Here is the info i have on the bbl/FH torque specs:
John at CMMG said 65FT LBS
FN manual says 40Nm to 50Nm
1Nm=0.737562149 FT LB
So if my math is correct that would be 29.5FT LB to 36.8FT LB
Posted by CMMG:
The thread is 12x1 LH. Secure the sleeve and chamber (15mm wrench) and unscrew the hider. Drill out the blind pin then unscrew the barrel. My first one wasn't pretty, I got the barrel and hider bound together because I didn't have everything secured like it was supposed to. You can do it a really fast way and just chop the old barrel off with a band saw and then the barrel will just fall out.
Posted by Halo Mfg:
When you do it, be commited to finish. In our case we followed jeffs instructions and ran into a snag. It wasn't his fault. The flash hider started to unthread then suddendly got stuck. We made the decision to continue and destroyed the threads on just under half of the barrel.
What happened was the threading on the hider bound and the pin ruined the rest of the threads. My gun was F---ked. I couldn't put the barrel cover back on (due to the threads) and now the only barrel I had to put on it was CMMG's (wich fit and functions perfect by the way). I finally designed a new fake suppressor to replace the barrel cover. So I wouldn't have to make it an SBR to take it home.
Everythings better now, but it won't ever have the original look again (FN will fix and re-pin it, but won't sell the barrel or extention.)
If anyone does change out there barrel (and has it and the cover with hider availiable). let me know ill buy it!
So the moral of the story is "I would suggest drilling out the pin, before doing anything"!!!
Posted by darkest2000:
Originally Posted by brazos609
So it looks like you just turned the wrench on the chamber area of the barrel and let the flat at the end of the sleeve stop against the receiver, kinda just chewed away the threads at the muzzle?
Nope, you might risk damaging the receiver that way, what I did was I threw the 15mm wrench on the chamber area then secure the wrench onto a vise, then you clamp down the flash hider/sleeve with a vise grip/slip joint plier and turn it clockwise (to unscrew), this way all the stress from the torque stays on the barrel/sleeve and not on the receiver.
The threads on the muzzle looks chewed away because I didn't completely remove the pin (long story) and that's just kinda how it turned out after I was done. It was a major chore for me because part of the pin got caught somewhere within the threads so it made unscrewing the sleeve extremely tedious. If the pin is completely removed like it should have been I don't think it's going to be that difficult at all as soon as the sleeve loosens.
Moral of the story: Be sure you completely remove the pin before you do anything or you'll have a tough life.
Posted by Brontes:
If anyone is going to post instructions on this forum and they are wrong, how could it not be their fault?
Everyone knows you need to take out the pin first. CMMG simply posted the wrong instructions, you followed them and wrecked your gun.
Destructions:
1. Remove the pin (best thing to do is to drill from the other side and tap it out. The pin goes almost all the way through)
2. Clamp the sleve - brake loose hider. Hider goes on right hand thread into the sleve !!!! 1/2 turn is enough to loosen it (use torch to heat up parts)
3. Clamp the hider and turn out the barrel - barrel is in the hider left hand thread!
This is where you will most likely break the receiver - UNLESS - you turn the barrel on it's axis. The simplest way to do this is to have a custom 15 mm wrench with handles on either side, so you can turn on center and not bend the barrel. The barrel is chromoly steel, it flexes quite a bit. If you yank on it while the hider is in the clamp, you run the rick of stressing the receiver and cracking it (as some on this forum have done).
To make one of these, slim down an automotive 15 mm wrench (only the jaw part)and weld on a handle.
4. Separate hider from sleeve (they are already loose)
Contrary to popular belief on this forum - the barrel is NOT threaded to the sleeve - only to the hider.
You need:
1. Milling machine (heavy duty)
2. AR 16 barrel clamp
3. Heavy duty vise
4. Propane torch
5. Carbide Milling bits
6. Custom made 15mm wrench (slimmed down automotive with opposing handle)
7. Custom made hardened steel plate that you can insert trough the hider and whack it (to loosen the sleve from the hider)
8. Mig welder (for the wrench)
So, unless you have all the equipment above - give it to a gunsmith that does and knows what he/she is doing. Be were - there are quacks out there.
In Retrospect:
Many members here have been hacking their barrels off. Keep in mind - FN will NOT sell you a spare 16" barrel or a sleve or a hider (they are all going on guns).
If they did, barrel is $600.00, sleeve is $150 and so is the hider. Near close to $1,000 of replacement parts MSRP.
So, if you have destroyed the barrel, hider and sleeve with a hacksaw ($900), paid CMMG for a short barrel ($275) and a new hider $95 and a $200.00 for the ATF stamp - you just bought yourself another PS90. Instead, you have a weapon that Hillary now knows you have - and one with inferior ballistics to the PS90.
Posted by Sua Sponte:
OR --
you can take a $5 hack saw and just cut behind the pin on the sleeve about 1" -- the old barrel will then fall out the breech end, hit the floor, and go "ping-ping-ping" until it comes to a stop.
ohhhh, and while the ballistics may be marginally superior, the SBR version is way cooler looking!!!! let's be honest, the PS90 looks like a broom! LOL!
Posted by CLC3251:
First remove the pin holding the flash hider on. You can grind out a relief cut as Mark did or drill it out. Either way, remove the entire pin. There is no way to do it without maring the barrel extension. If you took a really long time, you cold carefully drill/grind away the opposite side of the sleeve from the pin and carefully drive it out. Once the pin is removed, don't try to unscrew the flash hider from the sleeve, it will not come out. Take a 15mm open ended box wrench and grind down the sides so that it will fit in the groove in the chamber end of the barrel. Most standard wrenches will not fit as the groove is tight and if you try to force it you will mar the barrel. Unscrew the barrel from the flash hider. It has left hand threads, so turn it clockwise to remove it. An easy way is to wrap the flash hider in a few layers of paper and clamp it in a pair of aluminum AR-15 barrel blocks to hold it without marring it. Watch the front of the receiver as once the hider/sleeve unscrews a certain amount, it can rotate and scratch the front of the receiver. Once it unscrews from the flash hider, you can pull the hider/sleeve off of the front of the barrel. Watch carefully as there is a spring between the sleeve and the receiver around the barrel that you will need to put back when you re-asemble or replace with a short barrel and hider. Pull the barrel out of the back of the receiver carefully as the recoil spring is around the barrel and the spring loaded takedown button is near the back That's it. You can separate the flash hider from ther sleeve by unscrewing it but it is right hand thread so unscrew it counter clockwise. The two different thread turns is what prevents you from unscrewing the hider first. The barrel only screws into the flash hider, but the flash hider screws into both the barrel and the sleeve which prevents it from being removed first.
UPDATE 07/21/2006 CMMG has posted detailed instructions (with lots of pictures) on the FiveseveN Forum - READ THIS FIRST: http://fivesevenforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41652&postcount=1
JUST IN CASE YOU MISSED IT - READ CMMG's HOWTO in the link above.
Posted by tctrld:
Tools:
Dremel
15mm wrench
Vise
Punch
1. Disassemble PS90. Time for this: 1:00 minute
2. I used my dremel to reveal the other side of the pin on the shroud. (using a cutting attachment in an 'scraping' motion) - time for this 1:00 minute
3. Tap out the pin using a punch and hammer. Time for this: 0:10 seconds
4. I mounted the receiver assembly in my vise, vice jaws grabbing on to the flash hider. Use a 15mm wrench and apply force. NOTE! Turn clock-wise as it's reverse threaded. Barrel separated from flash hider after a few light taps with the palm of my hand. Time for this: 1:00 minute
5. Re-assemble with CMMG 10.3" barrel and P90 flash hider. Time for this 1:00 minute.
It is easier that it looks/sounds. The barrel has milled flats at the breach end for a 15mm wrench. The barrel screws into the flash hider only. Nothing screws into the receiver. The barrel assembly is under spring load between it and the receiver. That's why you can push on the muzzle and have it give for about 1/4"
Posted by fenemij:
Here is the info i have on the bbl/FH torque specs:
John at CMMG said 65FT LBS
FN manual says 40Nm to 50Nm
1Nm=0.737562149 FT LB
So if my math is correct that would be 29.5FT LB to 36.8FT LB
Posted by CMMG:
The thread is 12x1 LH. Secure the sleeve and chamber (15mm wrench) and unscrew the hider. Drill out the blind pin then unscrew the barrel. My first one wasn't pretty, I got the barrel and hider bound together because I didn't have everything secured like it was supposed to. You can do it a really fast way and just chop the old barrel off with a band saw and then the barrel will just fall out.
Posted by Halo Mfg:
When you do it, be commited to finish. In our case we followed jeffs instructions and ran into a snag. It wasn't his fault. The flash hider started to unthread then suddendly got stuck. We made the decision to continue and destroyed the threads on just under half of the barrel.
What happened was the threading on the hider bound and the pin ruined the rest of the threads. My gun was F---ked. I couldn't put the barrel cover back on (due to the threads) and now the only barrel I had to put on it was CMMG's (wich fit and functions perfect by the way). I finally designed a new fake suppressor to replace the barrel cover. So I wouldn't have to make it an SBR to take it home.
Everythings better now, but it won't ever have the original look again (FN will fix and re-pin it, but won't sell the barrel or extention.)
If anyone does change out there barrel (and has it and the cover with hider availiable). let me know ill buy it!
So the moral of the story is "I would suggest drilling out the pin, before doing anything"!!!
Posted by darkest2000:
Originally Posted by brazos609
So it looks like you just turned the wrench on the chamber area of the barrel and let the flat at the end of the sleeve stop against the receiver, kinda just chewed away the threads at the muzzle?
Nope, you might risk damaging the receiver that way, what I did was I threw the 15mm wrench on the chamber area then secure the wrench onto a vise, then you clamp down the flash hider/sleeve with a vise grip/slip joint plier and turn it clockwise (to unscrew), this way all the stress from the torque stays on the barrel/sleeve and not on the receiver.
The threads on the muzzle looks chewed away because I didn't completely remove the pin (long story) and that's just kinda how it turned out after I was done. It was a major chore for me because part of the pin got caught somewhere within the threads so it made unscrewing the sleeve extremely tedious. If the pin is completely removed like it should have been I don't think it's going to be that difficult at all as soon as the sleeve loosens.
Moral of the story: Be sure you completely remove the pin before you do anything or you'll have a tough life.
Posted by Brontes:
If anyone is going to post instructions on this forum and they are wrong, how could it not be their fault?
Everyone knows you need to take out the pin first. CMMG simply posted the wrong instructions, you followed them and wrecked your gun.
Destructions:
1. Remove the pin (best thing to do is to drill from the other side and tap it out. The pin goes almost all the way through)
2. Clamp the sleve - brake loose hider. Hider goes on right hand thread into the sleve !!!! 1/2 turn is enough to loosen it (use torch to heat up parts)
3. Clamp the hider and turn out the barrel - barrel is in the hider left hand thread!
This is where you will most likely break the receiver - UNLESS - you turn the barrel on it's axis. The simplest way to do this is to have a custom 15 mm wrench with handles on either side, so you can turn on center and not bend the barrel. The barrel is chromoly steel, it flexes quite a bit. If you yank on it while the hider is in the clamp, you run the rick of stressing the receiver and cracking it (as some on this forum have done).
To make one of these, slim down an automotive 15 mm wrench (only the jaw part)and weld on a handle.
4. Separate hider from sleeve (they are already loose)
Contrary to popular belief on this forum - the barrel is NOT threaded to the sleeve - only to the hider.
You need:
1. Milling machine (heavy duty)
2. AR 16 barrel clamp
3. Heavy duty vise
4. Propane torch
5. Carbide Milling bits
6. Custom made 15mm wrench (slimmed down automotive with opposing handle)
7. Custom made hardened steel plate that you can insert trough the hider and whack it (to loosen the sleve from the hider)
8. Mig welder (for the wrench)
So, unless you have all the equipment above - give it to a gunsmith that does and knows what he/she is doing. Be were - there are quacks out there.
In Retrospect:
Many members here have been hacking their barrels off. Keep in mind - FN will NOT sell you a spare 16" barrel or a sleve or a hider (they are all going on guns).
If they did, barrel is $600.00, sleeve is $150 and so is the hider. Near close to $1,000 of replacement parts MSRP.
So, if you have destroyed the barrel, hider and sleeve with a hacksaw ($900), paid CMMG for a short barrel ($275) and a new hider $95 and a $200.00 for the ATF stamp - you just bought yourself another PS90. Instead, you have a weapon that Hillary now knows you have - and one with inferior ballistics to the PS90.
Posted by Sua Sponte:
OR --
you can take a $5 hack saw and just cut behind the pin on the sleeve about 1" -- the old barrel will then fall out the breech end, hit the floor, and go "ping-ping-ping" until it comes to a stop.
ohhhh, and while the ballistics may be marginally superior, the SBR version is way cooler looking!!!! let's be honest, the PS90 looks like a broom! LOL!
Posted by CLC3251:
First remove the pin holding the flash hider on. You can grind out a relief cut as Mark did or drill it out. Either way, remove the entire pin. There is no way to do it without maring the barrel extension. If you took a really long time, you cold carefully drill/grind away the opposite side of the sleeve from the pin and carefully drive it out. Once the pin is removed, don't try to unscrew the flash hider from the sleeve, it will not come out. Take a 15mm open ended box wrench and grind down the sides so that it will fit in the groove in the chamber end of the barrel. Most standard wrenches will not fit as the groove is tight and if you try to force it you will mar the barrel. Unscrew the barrel from the flash hider. It has left hand threads, so turn it clockwise to remove it. An easy way is to wrap the flash hider in a few layers of paper and clamp it in a pair of aluminum AR-15 barrel blocks to hold it without marring it. Watch the front of the receiver as once the hider/sleeve unscrews a certain amount, it can rotate and scratch the front of the receiver. Once it unscrews from the flash hider, you can pull the hider/sleeve off of the front of the barrel. Watch carefully as there is a spring between the sleeve and the receiver around the barrel that you will need to put back when you re-asemble or replace with a short barrel and hider. Pull the barrel out of the back of the receiver carefully as the recoil spring is around the barrel and the spring loaded takedown button is near the back That's it. You can separate the flash hider from ther sleeve by unscrewing it but it is right hand thread so unscrew it counter clockwise. The two different thread turns is what prevents you from unscrewing the hider first. The barrel only screws into the flash hider, but the flash hider screws into both the barrel and the sleeve which prevents it from being removed first.
Saturday, April 15, 2006
FN FiveseveN Forums - Disassemble PS90 Stock
Posted by Halo Mfg:
FN FiveseveN Forums - Disassemble PS90 Stock: "Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabian
Anyone have a detailed break down on stripping the PS90 stock down to get it ready for dying?
Its VERY easy. Pull the mag, pull the upper receiver, pull the bolt out next, pull the rear buttpad off, then pull the trigger pack out.
Now unscrew the two halves of the body.
Pull out everything else!
Thats it!
My gun stayed together after the two halves were seperated. So you can see where everything goes. The only parts to be careful, of are the 2 tiny springs under the safety/fire switch. It has the typical springs that will fly out into your shag carpet (no matter where you are in the room). The springs have tiny 'click' wedges on either end. This is the only thing you have to watch for.
Everything else is easy! The mag release is one piece with a fat spring behind it (it will also be the last thing you install). You will just slide it backwards into place after reassembly, untill it snaps in.
The ejection door cover in the 'ejection port' is mostly one piece, and stays together well. It also reassembles EASY, depress the two spring sides and slide it up the port. It snaps into place. You dont even need to worry about re-setting the spring. it resets itself when you re-install the cover. Thats about it for pieces.
The trigger is attached to a bar. The dis-assembly is almost self explanitory.
I took the nuts out of the stock as well, just because.
The only 'difficult' part is re-installing the safety/fire switch. You have to depress the two springs together with the 'wedge' pieces on them, and slide them under the switch. The hard part comes from the 'wedge' pieces rotating around while trying to stick them under there. "
FN FiveseveN Forums - Disassemble PS90 Stock: "Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabian
Anyone have a detailed break down on stripping the PS90 stock down to get it ready for dying?
Its VERY easy. Pull the mag, pull the upper receiver, pull the bolt out next, pull the rear buttpad off, then pull the trigger pack out.
Now unscrew the two halves of the body.
Pull out everything else!
Thats it!
My gun stayed together after the two halves were seperated. So you can see where everything goes. The only parts to be careful, of are the 2 tiny springs under the safety/fire switch. It has the typical springs that will fly out into your shag carpet (no matter where you are in the room). The springs have tiny 'click' wedges on either end. This is the only thing you have to watch for.
Everything else is easy! The mag release is one piece with a fat spring behind it (it will also be the last thing you install). You will just slide it backwards into place after reassembly, untill it snaps in.
The ejection door cover in the 'ejection port' is mostly one piece, and stays together well. It also reassembles EASY, depress the two spring sides and slide it up the port. It snaps into place. You dont even need to worry about re-setting the spring. it resets itself when you re-install the cover. Thats about it for pieces.
The trigger is attached to a bar. The dis-assembly is almost self explanitory.
I took the nuts out of the stock as well, just because.
The only 'difficult' part is re-installing the safety/fire switch. You have to depress the two springs together with the 'wedge' pieces on them, and slide them under the switch. The hard part comes from the 'wedge' pieces rotating around while trying to stick them under there. "
Thursday, April 13, 2006
FN FiveseveN Forums - Taking off the barrel to SBR the PS90
Posted by CLC3251:
FN FiveseveN Forums - Taking off the barrel to SBR the PS90: "First remove the pin holding the flash hider on. You can grind out a relief cut as Mark did or drill it out. Either way, remove the entire pin. There is no way to do it without maring the barrel extension. If you took a really long time, you cold carefully drill/grind away the opposite side of the sleeve from the pin and carefully drive it out. Once the pin is removed, don't try to unscrew the flash hider from the sleeve, it will not come out. Take a 15mm open ended box wrench and grind down the sides so that it will fit in the groove in the chamber end of the barrel. Most standard wrenches will not fit as the groove is tight and if you try to force it you will mar the barrel. Unscrew the barrel from the flash hider. It has left hand threads, so turn it clockwise to remove it. An easy way is to wrap the flash hider in a few layers of paper and clamp it in a pair of aluminum AR-15 barrel blocks to hold it without marring it. Watch the front of the receiver as once the hider/sleeve unscrews a certain amount, it can rotate and scratch the front of the receiver. Once it unscrews from the flash hider, you can pull the hider/sleeve off of the front of the barrel. Watch carefully as there is a spring between the sleeve and the receiver around the barrel that you will need to put back when you re-asemble or replace with a short barrel and hider. Pull the barrel out of the back of the receiver carefully as the recoil spring is around the barrel and the spring loaded takedown button is near the back That's it. You can separate the flash hider from ther sleeve by unscrewing it but it is right hand thread so unscrew it counter clockwise. The two different thread turns is what prevents you from unscrewing the hider first. The barrel only screws into the flash hider, but the flash hider screws into both the "
FN FiveseveN Forums - Taking off the barrel to SBR the PS90: "First remove the pin holding the flash hider on. You can grind out a relief cut as Mark did or drill it out. Either way, remove the entire pin. There is no way to do it without maring the barrel extension. If you took a really long time, you cold carefully drill/grind away the opposite side of the sleeve from the pin and carefully drive it out. Once the pin is removed, don't try to unscrew the flash hider from the sleeve, it will not come out. Take a 15mm open ended box wrench and grind down the sides so that it will fit in the groove in the chamber end of the barrel. Most standard wrenches will not fit as the groove is tight and if you try to force it you will mar the barrel. Unscrew the barrel from the flash hider. It has left hand threads, so turn it clockwise to remove it. An easy way is to wrap the flash hider in a few layers of paper and clamp it in a pair of aluminum AR-15 barrel blocks to hold it without marring it. Watch the front of the receiver as once the hider/sleeve unscrews a certain amount, it can rotate and scratch the front of the receiver. Once it unscrews from the flash hider, you can pull the hider/sleeve off of the front of the barrel. Watch carefully as there is a spring between the sleeve and the receiver around the barrel that you will need to put back when you re-asemble or replace with a short barrel and hider. Pull the barrel out of the back of the receiver carefully as the recoil spring is around the barrel and the spring loaded takedown button is near the back That's it. You can separate the flash hider from ther sleeve by unscrewing it but it is right hand thread so unscrew it counter clockwise. The two different thread turns is what prevents you from unscrewing the hider first. The barrel only screws into the flash hider, but the flash hider screws into both the "
Tuesday, March 07, 2006
FN FiveseveN Forums - factory powder?
Posted by Medula Oblongata:
FN FiveseveN Forums - factory powder?: "I like TrueBlue over any other powder except Viht 3N37 (for my 55grn loads). It is easy to measure, easy to handle, and when spilled on a desk, it eask to clean up. Not only that it is fairly clean and has a perfect amount of graphite on it to help with lubing the measure.
My prefered case length is 1.1345' and I try to get my OAL all the way up to 1.585'. with the longer bullets like the VMax, Nosler ballistic tip, and sierra BlitzKing, you can achieve factory length (1.585' of thereabouts). With shorter obive bullets you will have to determine your own seating depth based upon projectile length and how much of the bullet is in contact with the case throat. You must have enough of it in the case to have a uniform starting pressure. I like to make sure that my short ogive bullets are seated to the bottom of the neck, as close to flush or slightly deeper (maybe 1/500th past the neck)."
FN FiveseveN Forums - factory powder?: "I like TrueBlue over any other powder except Viht 3N37 (for my 55grn loads). It is easy to measure, easy to handle, and when spilled on a desk, it eask to clean up. Not only that it is fairly clean and has a perfect amount of graphite on it to help with lubing the measure.
My prefered case length is 1.1345' and I try to get my OAL all the way up to 1.585'. with the longer bullets like the VMax, Nosler ballistic tip, and sierra BlitzKing, you can achieve factory length (1.585' of thereabouts). With shorter obive bullets you will have to determine your own seating depth based upon projectile length and how much of the bullet is in contact with the case throat. You must have enough of it in the case to have a uniform starting pressure. I like to make sure that my short ogive bullets are seated to the bottom of the neck, as close to flush or slightly deeper (maybe 1/500th past the neck)."
Monday, January 30, 2006
FN FiveseveN Forums - Who makes the integrated laser?
Posted by turk:
FN FiveseveN Forums - Who makes the integrated laser?: "Can't see how taking it apart would void the warranty, there is nothing inside to mess up. Besides the SBR conversion I am going to do will take care of the warranty.
By the way all you need is a 3mm hex key to take it apart. It just pulls apart after the bolts are taken out, and believe it or not nothing comes flying out at you when it's done!! You know like springs, pins ect."
FN FiveseveN Forums - Who makes the integrated laser?: "Can't see how taking it apart would void the warranty, there is nothing inside to mess up. Besides the SBR conversion I am going to do will take care of the warranty.
By the way all you need is a 3mm hex key to take it apart. It just pulls apart after the bolts are taken out, and believe it or not nothing comes flying out at you when it's done!! You know like springs, pins ect."
Monday, December 12, 2005
Answers ... to SBR Form 1 questions (related to HK94)
Answers ...: "In Response To: Thanks! Some form 1 questions ctx.. (Thanks, Calif DOJ!)
1. What do I put as the 'model'?
You can leave the model number alone (HK94), or make up a new one of your choosing. If you want you can call it 'Howard's Most Excellent Short Barreled Bang Stick', if you can find enough room to engrave it ...
2. Do I have to put anything under the 'additional markings' box?
Nothing is required, it's typically only used when you have a sear 'married' to a firearm where the receiver is not registered separately, or when an integral suppressor is permanently mounted to a specific firearm, etc.
3. What is name and address of 'original manufacturer'?
The original manufacturer is HK, but ATF will accept either the manufacturer or importer as the 'original', so either the German address or their US HQ (Sterling, Va) will be fine. No need to have the complete address, ATF knows who (and where) they are. If you really want the entire address do a Goggle on them - they have a website, look under 'contact'.
4. What is best to put for OAL?
Put the actual OAL as the gun is currently configured. No law or regulation requires the OAL be permanent ...
HTH,
Howard "
1. What do I put as the 'model'?
You can leave the model number alone (HK94), or make up a new one of your choosing. If you want you can call it 'Howard's Most Excellent Short Barreled Bang Stick', if you can find enough room to engrave it ...
2. Do I have to put anything under the 'additional markings' box?
Nothing is required, it's typically only used when you have a sear 'married' to a firearm where the receiver is not registered separately, or when an integral suppressor is permanently mounted to a specific firearm, etc.
3. What is name and address of 'original manufacturer'?
The original manufacturer is HK, but ATF will accept either the manufacturer or importer as the 'original', so either the German address or their US HQ (Sterling, Va) will be fine. No need to have the complete address, ATF knows who (and where) they are. If you really want the entire address do a Goggle on them - they have a website, look under 'contact'.
4. What is best to put for OAL?
Put the actual OAL as the gun is currently configured. No law or regulation requires the OAL be permanent ...
HTH,
Howard "
Thursday, December 08, 2005
FN FiveseveN Forums - PS90 30 round mags easy to make 50!
Posted by 14.5mm:
FN FiveseveN Forums - PS90 30 round mags easy to make 50!: "PS90 30 round mags easy to make 50!
OK, I know there's been lots of gnashing of teeth about the 30 round mags. Me too......then I pawed the one over which came with this review gun......
HO HO
Regular mag with just a filler block in it. Guess what, they made it so that you can still pop the mag right apart for cleaning.....and guess what, the filler comes right out......
Now, the filler is integral to the piece which locks the floorplate on. Soooo, all one would have to do is trim the filler piece off. Then put it back together.....
I only really pawed this mag over after looking at the dissasembly pics of it in the factory manual.
So, it appears you will be able to take plain jane 30 round mags and convert them back into 50 rounders with no problemo......perfectly legal even...
HA"
FN FiveseveN Forums - PS90 30 round mags easy to make 50!: "PS90 30 round mags easy to make 50!
OK, I know there's been lots of gnashing of teeth about the 30 round mags. Me too......then I pawed the one over which came with this review gun......
HO HO
Regular mag with just a filler block in it. Guess what, they made it so that you can still pop the mag right apart for cleaning.....and guess what, the filler comes right out......
Now, the filler is integral to the piece which locks the floorplate on. Soooo, all one would have to do is trim the filler piece off. Then put it back together.....
I only really pawed this mag over after looking at the dissasembly pics of it in the factory manual.
So, it appears you will be able to take plain jane 30 round mags and convert them back into 50 rounders with no problemo......perfectly legal even...
HA"
Wednesday, November 16, 2005
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