My notes (and other findings) related to the FN 5.7x28mm Weapon System (Ammunition, Five-seveN pistol, P90 PDW, PS90 carbine, CMMG Banshee Mk57, SCHV weapons in general, conversion of other weapons, accessories, reloading, etc.)
Friday, November 04, 2005
Thursday, November 03, 2005
Dry-fire Practice Magazine - GlockStore.com
I might recycle (modify) one of my 10-round FsN magazines and spray-paint it safety blue or safety orange.
Dry-fire Practice Magazine - GlockStore.com
Dry-fire Practice Magazine - GlockStore.com
Makarov.com - Technical Information wax bullets for target practice
Makarov.com - Technical Information: "Wax Bullets for Indoor Shooting
Want to shoot your Makarov indoors or in the backyard without freaking out the neighbors? Try casting your own wax bullets, then use a primer-only case to shoot them.
Don't Want to Cast Your Own?
We also carry X-ring rubber bullet sets. The only downside is that you need to recover the rubber bullets, clean them and reuse them. See the On-Line Shopping Cart Makarov Page for how to order.
Here's how to mold them:
Get a Lee Makarov bullet mold - Midway carries them and we might look into offering them.
Melt some candle wax from old candle stubs in a double boiler made of an old pot filled partially with water and a tin can as the inside pot. You don't need much and it's more efficient if you only melt a little at a time.
Pour the wax into the mold. If there's a top sprue plate, move it aside and pour directly into the mold. Then move the shield into place while the wax is still liquid. I found I didn't need to lube the molds for the bullets to drop free later.
Wait about 1 minute...this time becomes longer as the mold metal warms up and it takes longer to solidify. An ice water bath will compensate for that and increase your casting rate.
Open the mold and push the bullets out. Be careful not to put too much pressure on them yet or they'll deform. Put them in the fridge to completely cool, especially in hot weather.
Here's how to shoot them:
Take the appropriate brass and run it through the resizer/decapper and reprime the case. Run the case through the belling die being careful not to open it up too far.
Be sure the belling stage did not drop any powder into the case. You want the primer only.
Push the wax bullet into the case. Make sure you don't seat it to far. Since more bullet molds oversize the bullets in anticipation of a bullet s"
Want to shoot your Makarov indoors or in the backyard without freaking out the neighbors? Try casting your own wax bullets, then use a primer-only case to shoot them.
Don't Want to Cast Your Own?
We also carry X-ring rubber bullet sets. The only downside is that you need to recover the rubber bullets, clean them and reuse them. See the On-Line Shopping Cart Makarov Page for how to order.
Here's how to mold them:
Get a Lee Makarov bullet mold - Midway carries them and we might look into offering them.
Melt some candle wax from old candle stubs in a double boiler made of an old pot filled partially with water and a tin can as the inside pot. You don't need much and it's more efficient if you only melt a little at a time.
Pour the wax into the mold. If there's a top sprue plate, move it aside and pour directly into the mold. Then move the shield into place while the wax is still liquid. I found I didn't need to lube the molds for the bullets to drop free later.
Wait about 1 minute...this time becomes longer as the mold metal warms up and it takes longer to solidify. An ice water bath will compensate for that and increase your casting rate.
Open the mold and push the bullets out. Be careful not to put too much pressure on them yet or they'll deform. Put them in the fridge to completely cool, especially in hot weather.
Here's how to shoot them:
Take the appropriate brass and run it through the resizer/decapper and reprime the case. Run the case through the belling die being careful not to open it up too far.
Be sure the belling stage did not drop any powder into the case. You want the primer only.
Push the wax bullet into the case. Make sure you don't seat it to far. Since more bullet molds oversize the bullets in anticipation of a bullet s"
Graybeard Outdoors :: View topic - How do you make a snap cap ?
Graybeard Outdoors :: View topic - How do you make a snap cap ?
Gun Runner:
I made mine out of a pencil erasser. Rounded it to fit with a piece of sand paper, a dab of super glue around the sides and base.
Vietvet:
I just fill the primer pocket with silicone sealer.
gunnut69:
The silicone sealer works better if there's a piece of brass or steel glued over it to better resist the firing pin..
2520:
Fill the primer pocket with hot glue. Lasts a long time. I seat a flat base bullet upside down and flush to the case mouth to give it some heft and to be sure I don't ever put in some powder. I paint the case head with red nail polish to identify it as a snap cap.
BoarHunter:
I agree with the above post telling you need to put some brass (just saw a piece of brass rod or brass screw) to take the blow. Just the hot glue or the silicone will not absorb the striker energy and it will be as dry firing.
Epoxy works better as it is stronger.
Seat a bullet and crimp it hard but drill holes in the case to identify it as a dummy.
Gun Runner:
I made mine out of a pencil erasser. Rounded it to fit with a piece of sand paper, a dab of super glue around the sides and base.
Vietvet:
I just fill the primer pocket with silicone sealer.
gunnut69:
The silicone sealer works better if there's a piece of brass or steel glued over it to better resist the firing pin..
2520:
Fill the primer pocket with hot glue. Lasts a long time. I seat a flat base bullet upside down and flush to the case mouth to give it some heft and to be sure I don't ever put in some powder. I paint the case head with red nail polish to identify it as a snap cap.
BoarHunter:
I agree with the above post telling you need to put some brass (just saw a piece of brass rod or brass screw) to take the blow. Just the hot glue or the silicone will not absorb the striker energy and it will be as dry firing.
Epoxy works better as it is stronger.
Seat a bullet and crimp it hard but drill holes in the case to identify it as a dummy.
Labels:
APD,
Dry Fire,
Handloading/Reloading,
Loading Techniques,
Training Aids
Post your Homemade Tools for Guns [Archive] - THR
Posted by Brainx:
Post your Homemade Tools for Guns [Archive] - THR: "I don't have a digital camera but my home-made snap-cap-rod is probably not worthy of a great photo.
At any rate, for all of my milsurp rifles I have a wood dowel rod that I put down the muzzle after cleaning to allow for the dry fire before putting the gun away. On the end of the rod is glued a pencil eraser. Insert the rod, push hard and dry fire.
I also have one for my shot guns. The rod is a piece of rigid copper pipe with a circular piece of hard rubber attached to the end."
Post your Homemade Tools for Guns [Archive] - THR: "I don't have a digital camera but my home-made snap-cap-rod is probably not worthy of a great photo.
At any rate, for all of my milsurp rifles I have a wood dowel rod that I put down the muzzle after cleaning to allow for the dry fire before putting the gun away. On the end of the rod is glued a pencil eraser. Insert the rod, push hard and dry fire.
I also have one for my shot guns. The rod is a piece of rigid copper pipe with a circular piece of hard rubber attached to the end."
HuntAmerica.com: What's your best homemade 'Snap Cap' assembly?
HuntAmerica.com: What's your best homemade 'Snap Cap' assembly?
Some snippets:
Question posed by Ed:
What did you use in place of the primer? Silicone cauking? An eraser tip? What?
How has it held up?
Posted by 41fan:
Buy a stick of 1/4" nylon or delrin (hobby shop) rod.
Run a 1/4x28 die down it.
Drill and tap the case for 1/4x28 and screw the rod in and face it off.
Even if you count the price of tools, a twenty dollar bill will supply snap caps for a lifetime in all calibers bigger than a 32 ACP.
Posted later by 41fan:
Now I have a little more time to explain.
I specified 1/4x28 for the thread. I tried 1/4x20 first but it seemed like it didn't hold up near as long and loosened too easy. (Teflon tape or silicone sealant will hold it in.)
Once you see how the material last you might want to make some really good ones by seating a bullet in the drilled case and squirting in a gob of silicone sealant then screwing in the rod all the way to the bullet or shoulder. They weigh close enough to be feeding dummies and even look good.
I found a translucent nylon at an Army Surplus store about 1970 that lasted better than anything else I’ve seen since. There was only a foot of it…..:(
You’ll know if its really good if its hard to thread in a die. The best material is too hard to dent with a thumbnail and seems to “heal-up” when cut by the die.
Ed:
Sounds good. So I guess the thing to do is to thread the entire rod at once (shouldn't be a big deal, I wouldn't think), seat a bullet, squirt in the silicone caulking (through the drilled/tapped hole), thread in the rod, and snip it off flush with tin snips or whatever. I don't have a drill press or a lathe, but I could probably do a fair job of slightly recessing the rod/primer by carefully using my RCBS Case Prep Center's primer-pocket uniformer. I could probably get pretty exact, actually, by getting some small washers and setting them over the uniformer's cutter.
BW piped in:
I've used old tire sidewalls and taken a hole punch to them. You can trim the plugs to fit for length and just glue them in with emblem cement. When and if they go to pot just punch em out with the decapper and replace them.
booger had a thought:
Russ, another trick, not as sophisticated as Jack's, is to put a dab of AcraGlas gel or, for that matter, epoxy in the primer pocket. This lasts a couple hundred snaps and is easy to replace and repair. Might work as a stopgap while you assemble the Belk's Super-duper Snap Caps (patent pending).
Some snippets:
Question posed by Ed:
What did you use in place of the primer? Silicone cauking? An eraser tip? What?
How has it held up?
Posted by 41fan:
Buy a stick of 1/4" nylon or delrin (hobby shop) rod.
Run a 1/4x28 die down it.
Drill and tap the case for 1/4x28 and screw the rod in and face it off.
Even if you count the price of tools, a twenty dollar bill will supply snap caps for a lifetime in all calibers bigger than a 32 ACP.
Posted later by 41fan:
Now I have a little more time to explain.
I specified 1/4x28 for the thread. I tried 1/4x20 first but it seemed like it didn't hold up near as long and loosened too easy. (Teflon tape or silicone sealant will hold it in.)
Once you see how the material last you might want to make some really good ones by seating a bullet in the drilled case and squirting in a gob of silicone sealant then screwing in the rod all the way to the bullet or shoulder. They weigh close enough to be feeding dummies and even look good.
I found a translucent nylon at an Army Surplus store about 1970 that lasted better than anything else I’ve seen since. There was only a foot of it…..:(
You’ll know if its really good if its hard to thread in a die. The best material is too hard to dent with a thumbnail and seems to “heal-up” when cut by the die.
Ed:
Sounds good. So I guess the thing to do is to thread the entire rod at once (shouldn't be a big deal, I wouldn't think), seat a bullet, squirt in the silicone caulking (through the drilled/tapped hole), thread in the rod, and snip it off flush with tin snips or whatever. I don't have a drill press or a lathe, but I could probably do a fair job of slightly recessing the rod/primer by carefully using my RCBS Case Prep Center's primer-pocket uniformer. I could probably get pretty exact, actually, by getting some small washers and setting them over the uniformer's cutter.
BW piped in:
I've used old tire sidewalls and taken a hole punch to them. You can trim the plugs to fit for length and just glue them in with emblem cement. When and if they go to pot just punch em out with the decapper and replace them.
booger had a thought:
Russ, another trick, not as sophisticated as Jack's, is to put a dab of AcraGlas gel or, for that matter, epoxy in the primer pocket. This lasts a couple hundred snaps and is easy to replace and repair. Might work as a stopgap while you assemble the Belk's Super-duper Snap Caps (patent pending).
Labels:
Ammo/Ballistics,
Dry Fire,
Howto/Manual,
Training Aids
Wednesday, November 02, 2005
Grip Reduction & Custom Beavertails
Not 100% applicable, but the general techniques might be applicable.
Brownells - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories and Gunsmithing Tools
Brownells - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories and Gunsmithing Tools
Tuesday, November 01, 2005
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