Laserex Laser Install (with text description and pictures)

Posted by U378:

Gentlemen, I do appreciate your input and warning about the lower power. I am sure the military grade laser is much better. I was already aware of the power restrictions but I purchased one anyway to evaluate it's performance. I wanted to determine whether or not it is of good enough quality to install in my PS90.

Allow me to share my experience:

I purchased the laser from Den Trinity after reading on their websight that it is in fact a Laserex P90 laser. I understood that it is not the military power model but that it is identical in every other aspect. The laser arrived in packaging marked P90 Laserex with an additional Quality Endorsed Company Standards Australia sticker. I opened the package and compared the laser system I received to the one in the photo of the split open P90 LV shown in this forum. The components are identical which is what I expected since it is the same Laserex P90 laser system with a lower power (civilian legal) laser. I did notice a minor improvement on the one I received. The wires leading from the activation button to the laser power setting switch were bound in a flexible tube instead of loose. I also observed that the battery compartment for the one I received has a black finish. The battery compartment for the one in the P90 LV photo appears identical without the black finish. The black finish on the one I received doesn't appear that durable though. However, I don't know of any finish that sticks to brass very well.

After powering it up, these were my observations:

The laser has three settings (Low, Off, High). It uses one 3V CR123A lithium battery (Standard size like in the Surefire and Streamlight lights). First I tested it indoors on the low setting. It appeared as bright as just about any other laser dot device. I then tested it indoors on the high setting and the laser was extremely bright. I would definitely say the brightness level compares to the Streamlight M6 laser. Indoors in a dark room, the laser was bright enough to light your area. The next day I tested it outdoors in Texas daylight. At a distance of about 100 feet, I could still see the dot on the side of a red building. However, the dot was not readily seen. At around 50 to 75 feet in daylight it was quickly spotted on a variety of different backgrounds. I did not test it any further than 100 feet.

My intention for purchasing the laser was to use it indoors or in low light environments where the stock sight is not at it's best. I am already satisfied with the performance of the stock sight in the daylight. I am not satisfied with the performance of the stock sight indoors or in low light environments. I believe this laser will "fill the gap" for me. It may not meet your requirments but it meets mine and maybe some others.

I do have photos of the laser I received but I can't post them. If someone would like to post them, I'd be happy to email them to you.

Posted by btown02: The information supplied by U378:

1. The stock must be disassembled by removing the
crossbolts. You will notice the strengthening ribs in
the stock which were not present in the earlier P90 LV
photo. The stock already has slots in place for the
laser wires.
2. I placed the front laser "cap" on the end of the
stock to mark it's postition. When drilling on the
seam, I had to use a very small drill bit and increase
the size gradually to prevent binding. I increased
the size till the laser "lens hood" could just fit
through the hole.
3. After inserting the "laser hood", I placed some
folded newspaper behind it to hold it in place and
reassembled the stock. With the hood held firmly in
place. I pressed the laser "cap" on the hood to
determine the position of the three cap mounting
screws which thread directly into the laser inside the
stock.
4. I then opened the stock and placed the laser inside
to determine the placement for the "power setting
selector." I marked the location, reassembled the
stock, and drilled the seam (again increasing bit size
gradually) until the appropriate size was achieved.
Keep in mind, the top surface of the power setting
selector must be mounted flush with the top of the
stock. Otherwise, it will bind when the receiver is
inserted. The way I accomplished this was by
recessing the top of the hole slightly with a
reloading case deburring tool.
5. I then marked the locations for the laser actuator
button and battery casing. I approximated the exact
location for the button after studying the P90 LV
photos found on the interenet. The battery casing
mount slides on one of the bolt guides so I just lined
it up and marked it.
6. After reassembling the stock, I carefully drilled
the button hole and battery casing hole (again
increasing bit size gradually). The battery casing
hole is quite large and I did not feel comfortable
using that large of a bit on the seam. So, I slightly
increased the size of the hole with a half round file
until the casing fit snug.
7. I opened the stock again, inserted the laser
components, and reassembled the stock.

I am certain that I did not use the correct technical
names for the components. But, I'm sure you can
figure out what I'm talking about.

The laser adjusts for windage and elevation by
tightening and loosening the front cap mounting
screws.

Also, just a warning. The plastic cuts and files VERY
easy. Be careful not to make the holes too big.

And the disclaimer..... I am not a machininst or a
professional gunsmith. Use this information at your
own risk.

Dixie Consolidated

Ruger 10/22 bullpup conversions.

Not an endorsement, but these appear to be better thought out and implemented than some of the other bullpup conversions out there.

Keep and Bear Arms

Sometimes I provide pointers to "political" sites.

Cross-Breed Holsters

Another entry in the holster market for the FsN.