Sunday, March 27, 2011
Handi Ejector to Extractor
Ejector: "This is one of my Handis, a 30-30, purchased from another GBO member, with a modification similar to one mentioned in the FAQs. Only difference is the material used. This has a piece of rubber/plastic tubing set to stop the ejector from catching and allows the cartridge to extract with the spring pressure and not fly out. The case comes out of the chamber much farther than those in the newer style extractors."
Handi Ejector to Extractor Mod
hr-ejector-mod: "Whatever your reason, changing the auto ejector to extractor is a very simple job. Begin by removing the fore end screw, and the fore end. Remove the barrel from the receiver. Now examine the under lug. You will note the ejector, the ejector catch, and three roll pins. The rear most roll pin should be drifted out ( either direction ) until the ejector catch is free. I prefer to leave this pin retained in the off side of the under lug. In this way it won’t get lost and is started, ready to drive back in. If you now pull the punch out, the ejector catch will drop downward and the ejector will move outward. If the ejector does not seem to be free, just pull down a little on the end of the ejector catch. Figure 1. shows the parts I have mentioned as well as a second ejector that has been ground down. Modification of the ejector required about 5 minutes with the use of a common “Moto Tool”. Refer to the drawing in figure 2., to see what metal needs to be removed."
More... including photos and diagrams
More... including photos and diagrams
Handi Ejector Work - Rimmed to Rimless
Ejector work
MSP touched on this in another thread, converting a rimmed caliber barrel to a rimless caliber and the change needed to the ejector mechanizm to work properly. I had a problem getting the ejector to work well in my 35 Remington rechamber from 357Max. As MSP learned, the difference in rimless and rimmed ejection is the presence of the lifter button on rimless ejectors, without it, the ejector doesn't drop down below the cartridge rim and hangs up of the back the the rim when closing the action.
MSP pioneered the change after talking with Gordon at H&R CS, all that needs to be done is drill a 1/8" hole in the spring seat of the underlug where the latch spring is and installing a lifter button in the hole which causes the ejector to lift up behind the rim so it will eject when the action opens.
I performed the change today but ran into another issue in that the post or vertical part of the ejector isn't the same on all rifles, it's much thicker on some barrels, about twice as thick, the thick one won't work in a barrel designed for a thin post ejector. The top ejector is a .270 Ultracomp ejector, the bottom a .223 ejector that I used in the 35 Remington before I installed a .30-06 ejector today that I ordered from Brownell's when I originally did the ejector work.
Hope this helps someone in the future and a big thanks to MSP for enlightening me!!
I've added this thread to the FAQs in the ejector work section.
Tim
The lift button is the small hat shaped piece above the small latch spring on the right. The lift button can be made from a nail, dimensions are .170" long, the head is .026" thick and .209" wide, and the shank is .121" in diameter. It can be ordered from Brownell's, part #427-400-461 $4.58.
Lifter button hole at the end of the paper clip. This is a factory drilled hole that's off center, the one I drilled is perfectly centered in the seat!! This is a barrel I'm working on with a different kind of shim to fit it, more on that later.
MSP pioneered the change after talking with Gordon at H&R CS, all that needs to be done is drill a 1/8" hole in the spring seat of the underlug where the latch spring is and installing a lifter button in the hole which causes the ejector to lift up behind the rim so it will eject when the action opens.
I performed the change today but ran into another issue in that the post or vertical part of the ejector isn't the same on all rifles, it's much thicker on some barrels, about twice as thick, the thick one won't work in a barrel designed for a thin post ejector. The top ejector is a .270 Ultracomp ejector, the bottom a .223 ejector that I used in the 35 Remington before I installed a .30-06 ejector today that I ordered from Brownell's when I originally did the ejector work.
Hope this helps someone in the future and a big thanks to MSP for enlightening me!!
I've added this thread to the FAQs in the ejector work section.Tim
The lift button is the small hat shaped piece above the small latch spring on the right. The lift button can be made from a nail, dimensions are .170" long, the head is .026" thick and .209" wide, and the shank is .121" in diameter. It can be ordered from Brownell's, part #427-400-461 $4.58.
Lifter button hole at the end of the paper clip. This is a factory drilled hole that's off center, the one I drilled is perfectly centered in the seat!! This is a barrel I'm working on with a different kind of shim to fit it, more on that later.
Handi ejector to extractor change
Buffalo ejector change?: "if you want an extractor, just fold up a note card about 6 layers deep by 1/8' wide and place it between the roll pin in the hole on the side of the mounting lug and the top of the hole. It'll hold the ejector sear from engaging and will let it extract. When you wanna go back to ejector, take paper out."
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Global Defence Review
Global Defence Review:
An ad hoc working group consisting of technical and operational experts from France, Belgium, Switzerland, USA, Germany, the UK, Italy and the Netherlands met in order to establish a final classification between both calibres. Six criteria were selected, namely incapacitation, hit probability in test tubes, hit probability in weapons with shooters, reliability, internal ballistics and penetrating power. The final outcome based on the results spoke for itself (see table).
Synthesis of the results and QRT analysis
In a first stage, the QRT selected three testing criteria and their respective weights: effectiveness (80 per cent), cost of ammunition (15 per cent) and barrel wear (five per cent).
The results of the QRT analysis (taking into account different remarks made by the competitors on the calculations of lethality have shown that the 5.7mm is 27 per cent more effective (Pi/h) against unprotected targets at 100m than the 4.6mm and 11 per cent more effective than the 4.6 against CRISAT protected targets at the same range.
Regarding the barrel erosion, the conclusion of the QRT was that despite the fact that no significant erosion had been highlighted by the ETBS tests (5,000 rounds), the design of the 4.6x30mm ammunition would suggest a greater potential risk of barrel erosion.
In addition to the abovementioned analysis, the QRT also integrated the calibre potential and its design maturity into its analysis.
Despite some remaining minor errors in the evaluations, it is clear that at the end of the complete ETBS testing (a six-month intensive testing, more than 20 different tests performed), the 5.7x28mm calibre won this technical competition and the victory was confirmed and amplified by the complementary analysis and tests performed by the QRT. Some countries seem now to question those results or even the evaluation process.
It should be noted that this latter had been clearly defined and was accepted by all actors, industrials as well as national representatives before testing. Unfortunately, NATO policies imply that a general consensus has to be reached before making any decision. Any country can veto any decision anytime without even having to provide acceptable reasons. With such a process, economical or political interests can easily make any project fail miserably.
Finally, let us not forget that at the present time more than 20,000 5.7x28 mm systems are really in service throughout the world, including some NATO countries like Belgium, France, the Netherlands, Portugal, the USA, etc… and that in the end, the major factor of success is, and will remain, customers' satisfaction.
In the line of fire
FN Herstal's 5.7 System has proved itself through an extensive series of tests overseen and verified by organisations and authorities from around the world.
Much has been said about the choice of NATO not to take a decision about the standardisation of the new PDW caliber. The story goes back to 1990 with the publication of NATO Doc D296 defining the requests of the personal defence weapon as a replacement for the caliber 9mm, declared obsolete and ineffective in the face of new threats and the emergence of new ballistic protections.
Based on those requirements, FN Herstal launched its 5.7 System, comprising a submachine gun - the P90® - and a pistol - the Five-seveN®. Both of these shoot a revolutionary cartridge of 5.7x28mm calibre - the SS190, defeating the new CRISAT target defined by NATO. The inherent qualities of this system gained it immediate interest all over the world, particularly from special forces.
In 1999, other competitors had come on the scene such as the 4.6x30mm caliber. Blocked in its decision process due to a change of standardisation rules, NATO decided to launch a competition between interested candidates. The first tests were made in the UK but the main evaluation was performed in France in 2002 by the ETBS (where six-month tests, comprising 22 different tests took place) and by a quick reaction team (QRT) designed by Nato NAAG in 2003.
Although the QRT clearly mentioned its preferences for the 5.7x28mm caliber, the standardisation process seems to be definitively interrupted.
Brief analysis of ETBS testing
ETBS testing has underlined the following positive points:
- Greater effectiveness of the 5.7mm calibre against unprotected targets and equal against protected targets; energy deposit much higher for the 5.7mm
- Level of perforation of the CRISAT targets superior to the 150m NATO threshold (> 200m)
- Better internal ballistics of the 5.7x28mm system; leading to a more restricted sensitivity of the 5.7x28mm system to variations in firing conditions (extreme temperatures) compared to the 4.6x30mm
- The 4.6x30mm system is much more aggressive in relation to the weapon: higher internal pressure, variations and deviations are more important
An ad hoc working group consisting of technical and operational experts from France, Belgium, Switzerland, USA, Germany, the UK, Italy and the Netherlands met in order to establish a final classification between both calibres. Six criteria were selected, namely incapacitation, hit probability in test tubes, hit probability in weapons with shooters, reliability, internal ballistics and penetrating power. The final outcome based on the results spoke for itself (see table).
Synthesis of the results and QRT analysis
In a first stage, the QRT selected three testing criteria and their respective weights: effectiveness (80 per cent), cost of ammunition (15 per cent) and barrel wear (five per cent).
The results of the QRT analysis (taking into account different remarks made by the competitors on the calculations of lethality have shown that the 5.7mm is 27 per cent more effective (Pi/h) against unprotected targets at 100m than the 4.6mm and 11 per cent more effective than the 4.6 against CRISAT protected targets at the same range.
Regarding the barrel erosion, the conclusion of the QRT was that despite the fact that no significant erosion had been highlighted by the ETBS tests (5,000 rounds), the design of the 4.6x30mm ammunition would suggest a greater potential risk of barrel erosion.
In addition to the abovementioned analysis, the QRT also integrated the calibre potential and its design maturity into its analysis.
- The 5.7x28mm is close to the 5.56mm NATO calibre both by its design and manufacturing process. It can therefore be manufactured easily on the same production lines as the 5.56mm
- The 5.7x28mm system is much more mature than the 4.6x30mm system
- A 5.7x28mm pistol family exists whereas the 4.6x30mm pistol project is only a paper concept
Despite some remaining minor errors in the evaluations, it is clear that at the end of the complete ETBS testing (a six-month intensive testing, more than 20 different tests performed), the 5.7x28mm calibre won this technical competition and the victory was confirmed and amplified by the complementary analysis and tests performed by the QRT. Some countries seem now to question those results or even the evaluation process.
It should be noted that this latter had been clearly defined and was accepted by all actors, industrials as well as national representatives before testing. Unfortunately, NATO policies imply that a general consensus has to be reached before making any decision. Any country can veto any decision anytime without even having to provide acceptable reasons. With such a process, economical or political interests can easily make any project fail miserably.
Finally, let us not forget that at the present time more than 20,000 5.7x28 mm systems are really in service throughout the world, including some NATO countries like Belgium, France, the Netherlands, Portugal, the USA, etc… and that in the end, the major factor of success is, and will remain, customers' satisfaction.
Reliability test
5.7x28mm
Total score = 127
Total score without taking into consideration the Belgian and German values = 96
4.6x30mm
Total score = 107
Total score without taking into consideration the Belgian and German values = 83
Total score = 127
Total score without taking into consideration the Belgian and German values = 96
4.6x30mm
Total score = 107
Total score without taking into consideration the Belgian and German values = 83
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Richard's Swaging Book
Richard's Swaging Book: "Richard B Corbin
Richard’s Swaging Book
Table of contents
Chapter 1 Introduction
Chapter 2 Bullet Swaging Presses
Chapter 3 Lead Bullets
Chapter 4 Paper Jacketed Bullets
Chapter 5 Shotgun Slugs
Chapter 6 Tubing Jackets
Chapter 7 Cartridge Case Jackets
Chapter 8 Jackets
Chapter 9 Bullets, Metal Jacketed
Chapter 10 Special Bullets
Chapter 11 Making Dies
Chapter 12 Tables, Charts, & Stuff
Chapter 13 Swaging Business
Chapter 14 Addendum
click here to contact RCE, LLC
Click here to return to main menu"
Richard’s Swaging Book
Table of contents
Chapter 1 Introduction
Chapter 2 Bullet Swaging Presses
Chapter 3 Lead Bullets
Chapter 4 Paper Jacketed Bullets
Chapter 5 Shotgun Slugs
Chapter 6 Tubing Jackets
Chapter 7 Cartridge Case Jackets
Chapter 8 Jackets
Chapter 9 Bullets, Metal Jacketed
Chapter 10 Special Bullets
Chapter 11 Making Dies
Chapter 12 Tables, Charts, & Stuff
Chapter 13 Swaging Business
Chapter 14 Addendum
click here to contact RCE, LLC
Click here to return to main menu"
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Track of the Wolf - Barrel liners: breech loading rifle bore liners
Track of the Wolf - Barrel liners: breech loading rifle bore liners
Barrel liners for breech loading rifles & pistols are hammer forged of special Chromium Molybdenum alloy steel, in the U.S.A. Each liner is hammer forged over a special mandrel, producing an extremely smooth and uniform bore of the desired dimensions. We offer these calibers, twist rates, bores, and diameters.
A skilled gunsmith with proper tools can easily install Track's precision liners. We offer the following configurations of caliber, bore diameter, groove diameter, twist rate, outside diameter. Specify the desired length in inches. We cut liners to your desired length, and ship quickly, typically within 5 to 7 days. Restore your old barrel.
Price is per inch. Specify the exact length, in inches, you require.
Barrel liners for breech loading rifles & pistols are hammer forged of special Chromium Molybdenum alloy steel, in the U.S.A. Each liner is hammer forged over a special mandrel, producing an extremely smooth and uniform bore of the desired dimensions. We offer these calibers, twist rates, bores, and diameters.
A skilled gunsmith with proper tools can easily install Track's precision liners. We offer the following configurations of caliber, bore diameter, groove diameter, twist rate, outside diameter. Specify the desired length in inches. We cut liners to your desired length, and ship quickly, typically within 5 to 7 days. Restore your old barrel.
Price is per inch. Specify the exact length, in inches, you require.
| Quantity: | Part Number: | Description: | Price: | ||
 | LINER-22-CEN | Liner for .22 centerfire, .219" bore, .224" groove, 1-16" twist, 6 grooves, 1/2" OD, per inch | $4.89 | ||
| | LINER-22-LONG | Liner for .22 Long, .218" bore, .222" groove, 1-16" twist, 6 grooves, 3/8" OD, per inch | $4.89 | ||
| | LINER-22-MED | Liner for .22 centerfire, .218" bore, .223" groove, 1-16" twist, 6 grooves, 7/16" OD, per inch | $4.89 | ||
| | LINER-22-SHORT | Liner for .22 Short, .218" bore, .222" groove, 1-20" twist, 6 grooves, 3/8" OD, per inch | $4.89 |
Zimmermann Waffen oHG
Zimmermann Waffen oHG
Einstecklauf Z-Rasant 80 - unübertroffen in Schußleistung und Qualität
Hierdurch bietet sich dem Waidmann die Möglichkeit, seinen Drilling, seine Bockbüchsflinte oder Flinte zu einer Allroundwaffe aufzuwerten und damit den heutigen jagdlichen Verhältnissen gerecht zu werden.
Schußpräzision: Wir gewähren eine Schußleistungsgarantie auf unsere E-Läufe von
5cm/100m, eine einwandfreie Schußleistung der Trägerwaffe wird vorausgesetzt.
Die eigenen Ergebnisse liegen erheblich unter dem o.a. Streukreis, teilweise
bei 1-2 cm.
| VK-Preisliste (inkl. 19% Mwst, inkl. Montage), gültig ab 01.01.2010 | |
| .22 WMR/.22 lfB 12/16/20 940,00 .22 Hor. -ultraleicht- 12/16/20 750,00 .22 Hor. 12/16/20 864,00 5,6x50RMag. 12/16/20 880,00 5,6x50RMag -ultraleicht- 12/16/20 880,00 .222 Rem. 12/16/20 880,00 .222 Rem. -ultraleicht- 12/16/20 880,00 5,6x52R 12/16/20 880,00 5,6x52R -ultraleicht- 12/16/20 880 6x70R 12/16/20 905,00 6x70R -ultraleicht- 12/16/20 905,00 30-30 12/16/20 905,00 6,5x57R/7x57R 12/16/20 805,00 7x65R/8x57IRS 12/16/20 805,00 9,3x72R 12/16/20 805,00 9,3x74R/30-06 / .308 12/16 835,00 Andere Kaliber auf Anfrage 3-Schuß-Trefferbild 58,00 3-Schuß-Trefferbild ab Kal. 6,5x57R 91,00 Schlagbolzen verkleinern 102,00 Einbau eines seperaten Schlagbolzens mit Schlagbolzenmutter (Anson & Deeley) 241,00 Justierhülse "V.V.V." 73,00 Justierhülse (seitliche Verstellung) 49,00 Auszieher für E-Lauf (Rohling) 23,00 dito für randlose Patronen 39,00 Verschluß dichten (nach Arbeitsaufwand) ab 229,00 E-Lauf umarbeiten auf "Justierung an der Mündung" ab 244,00 E-Lauf umbauen in eine andere Waffe ab 300,00 Auszieherplatte, inkl. Montage (EL ab Kal. 6,5x57R) 97,00 Händlerpreise bitte direkt anfragen! Die E-Läufe können von WHE-Besitzern auch zum Selbsteinbau bezogen werden Für Schäden an der Waffe, welche durch den staatlichen Beschuß hervorgerufen werden, übernehmen wir keine Haftung! Lieferezeit ca. eine Woche |
E-Läufe ab Kal. 6,5x57R und größer werden hauptsächlich in Bockbüchsflinten, Bockflinten und Doppelflinten eingebaut. So wird aus einer BBFl. eine Bockdoppelbüchse oder aus einer Doppelfllinte eine Büchsflinte oder sogar eine Doppelbüchse, wenn hier zwei E-Läufe eingebaut werden. Eine kostengünstigere Alternative wird es wohl kaum geben.
Zimmermann Waffen Waldweg 5 97772 Wildflecken Tel.: 09745-2121
KEPPELER GERMANY - Technische Entwicklungen GmbH - Sportwaffen - Metallschaft - Einsteckl�ufe - Insert Barrels
KEPPELER GERMANY - Technische Entwicklungen GmbH - Sportwaffen - Metallschaft - Einsteckl�ufe - Insert Barrels
Insert Barrels
 |  from caliber 7 mm |  up to caliber 6.5 mm |
Insert barrels universalize and round off the range of use of break-action firearms. Keppeler insert barrels are made of first-class, partly stainless steel and stand out due to its perfect workmanship. The insert barrels are up to 72 cm long, full length, and flush-to-muzzle. They can be inserted and removed easily without the need of any tools while the point-of-impact does not change.
-
The patented Keppeler adjustment VVV was tested by the DEVA (German Institute for Testing Hunting and Sporting Firearms). Perfect precision and excellent performance when shooting multiple rounds heating up the barrel have been proven.
-
Point-of-impact does not change when inserting or removing the barrel
-
Adjustments of the insert barrel are possible without removing it: Due to four adjustment screws at the muzzle the insert barrel can be adjusted quickly and easily to the desired point-of-impact.
-
No adjustments of the choke are necessary when fitting the insert barrel to the gun.
-
Highest material and corrosion resistance ensure a long lifetime.
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No fouling of the shotgun barrel because the insert barrel seals the shotgun barrel completely.
-
Fullbore insert barrels are only suitable for over-and-under rifles with an accordingly strong action (cal. 12/16/20).
Stainless insert barrels with barrel lengths up to 650 mm:
| Insert Barrel Caliber | Gauge |
| .17 HMR | 12/16/20 |
| .22 lfB | 12/16/20 |
| .22 WMR | 12/16/20 |
| .22 Hornet | 12/16/20 |
| .22 Hornet superlight | 12/16 |
| .222 Remington | 12/16/20 |
| .223 Remington | 12/16/20 |
| .204 Ruger | 12/16/20 |
| 5,6 x 50 R Magnum | 12/16/20 |
| 5,6 x 52 R Savage | 12/16/20 |
| 6 x 52 Bretschneider | 12/16/20 |
| 6 x 70 | 12/16/20 |
Fullbore insert barrels with barrel lengths up to 650 mm
(only suitable for over-and-under rifles with an accordingly strong action):
Further calibers and overlength insert barrels up to 720 mm are available on request.
We recommend conferring with us or your dealer before inserting an insert barrel bigger than .22 Hornet in break-action firearms, especially drillings of older age, to prevent your firearm from damages through overstraining the action.
| Insert Barrel Caliber | Gauge |
| 30-30 | 12/16/20 |
| 6,5 x 57 R | 12/16/20 |
| 6,5 x 65 R | 12/16/20 |
| 7 x 57 R | 12/16/20 |
| 7 x 65 R | 12/16/20 |
| .30 R Blaser | 12/16/20 |
| 8 x 57 IRS | 12/16/20 |
| 9,3 x 72 R | 12/16/20 |
| 30-06 | 12/16/20 |
| .308 Winchester | 12/16/20 |
| .243 Winchester | 12/16/20 |
| .270 Winchester | 12/16 |
| .8 x 57 IR | 12/16/20 |
| 9,3 x 74 IR | 12 |
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Caliber conversion sleeve - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Caliber conversion sleeve - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: "A caliber conversion sleeve (known by many names, including cartridge conversion sleeve, supplemental chamber, chamber insert, subgauge insert or subgauge tube) is a device which can be used to non-permanently alter a firearm to allow it to fire a different cartridge than the one it was originally designed to fire."
22lr to 22mag?
22lr to 22mag?: "What you do is remove the ejector and spring. Then shim behind the ejector so that it is about .001 to .002 high above the breach. I put thick grease in the hole for the ejector so it doesn't fall out. Then you ream the chamber, stop when the rim cutting part of the reamer just touches the ejector. This will ream the ejector to match the chamber you have just cut. Take out the shims and put it all back together and things will be good. Good luck. Larry"
22lr to 22mag?
22lr to 22mag?: "I have a mag reamer and have done both NEF's and Rossi's and they work great. When you do the chamber in the LR, you need to do it with the ejector in place but without the spring under it. Larry"
Bore Slugging Request - .22RF
Bore Slugging Request - .22RF: "Here is some info from C.E. Haris in Gun Disgest 1994, p.11; bore/groove dimensions:
.22LR are .217/.222
.22WMR .219/.224"
.22LR are .217/.222
.22WMR .219/.224"
RaddLock.com
RaddLock.com: "Want to own and shoot what the politicians call an 'assault weapon' legally in California?
RaddLock makes easy-to-install-yourself kits that make your off-list semi-automatic centerfire rifles California-compliant, turning them into 'fixed magazine' rifles which are not subject to the Roberti-Roos Assault Weapons Control Act of 1989.
RaddLock's design philosophy is to make these kits as unobtrusive as possible and fully-reversible so that you can enjoy the both the form and function of your rifle as it was meant to be.
Currently, RaddLock offers magazine lock kits for the following rifles:"
[list here]
Also, (posted to arf):
Did a search found not much people mention it in this section.....
But make sure you "Neuter" (10rd limit and fixed magazine only removable with the aid of a tool) the upper before attaching to a lower in California!
AR57 is some what impractical to own in Cali. The whole point of owning this upper is to have access to 50rd of very controllable high velocity round.
But the laws says I can own one if it complies with CA DOJ. So here it is, built to California DOJ Spec.
RaddLock makes easy-to-install-yourself kits that make your off-list semi-automatic centerfire rifles California-compliant, turning them into 'fixed magazine' rifles which are not subject to the Roberti-Roos Assault Weapons Control Act of 1989.
RaddLock's design philosophy is to make these kits as unobtrusive as possible and fully-reversible so that you can enjoy the both the form and function of your rifle as it was meant to be.
Currently, RaddLock offers magazine lock kits for the following rifles:"
[list here]
Also, (posted to arf):
Did a search found not much people mention it in this section.....
But make sure you "Neuter" (10rd limit and fixed magazine only removable with the aid of a tool) the upper before attaching to a lower in California!
AR57 is some what impractical to own in Cali. The whole point of owning this upper is to have access to 50rd of very controllable high velocity round.
But the laws says I can own one if it complies with CA DOJ. So here it is, built to California DOJ Spec.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Relining-Reboring-MuzzleBrake
For the 5.7x28mm Handi project, another option would be to start with a 17HM2 or 17 HMR barrel and re-bore to .22 caliber then rechamber to 5.7x28mm
Relining-Reboring-MuzzleBrake: "Reboring and Relining
Reboring your existing rifle barrel is an economical way to get a high quality barrel. The only acceptable process of re-rifling a barrel is to cut the rifling, button rifling will not work on tapered barrels. Cut rifling has been around for years and is a proven method of producing highly accurate barrels.
We will rebore rifle barrels that are 18 inches or longer. Minimum muzzle diameter for rebores up to .375 is .550. We do not rebore double rifles."
Relining-Reboring-MuzzleBrake: "Reboring and Relining
Reboring your existing rifle barrel is an economical way to get a high quality barrel. The only acceptable process of re-rifling a barrel is to cut the rifling, button rifling will not work on tapered barrels. Cut rifling has been around for years and is a proven method of producing highly accurate barrels.
We will rebore rifle barrels that are 18 inches or longer. Minimum muzzle diameter for rebores up to .375 is .550. We do not rebore double rifles."
30 Carbine project
30 Carbine project: "Got the first few steps going on the 30 Carbine Handi. Tonight I started working on the 410 barrel for the stub for the 30 cal barrel. First I chucked it in the lathe and put a center in the breach, then turned a parallel spot in the barrel about 18.5 inches out from the breach. I also turned round the outside chamber area just in front of the hinge pin for my steady rest to run on while I bore and thread the chamber to accept the new barrel. I then parted the barrel off a 18.5 inches to make it a little easier to work with. I will leave it at 18.5 inches until I have the chamber machined away and the threads cut for the new barrel, then cut the chamber off from the rest of the 410 barrel. Guess we need to stay legal. A couple of thoughts so far. It would probably be easier to start with a 20 ga than a 410, a little less metal to remove. The forarm lug sure comes off easy, two little wacks and it was on the floor. If anyone needs the little brass bead front sight off a shotgun PM me, first one gets it free. Larry"
Building a Barrel for a H&R SB2 frame - Cast Boolits
Building a Barrel for a H&R SB2 frame - Cast Boolits
I offer the following information for no other reason than to show others how I have gone about the problem of obtaining barrels for the SB2 frame that are not offered by H&R.
Most of the work to this date has been on straight wall black powder cartridges for the Buffalo Classic. This covers .32-40, .38-55, .40-65, .45-70 and .50-70.
H&R Offers a .38-55 and .45-70 barrel but the rifling is very shallow and in my opinion
just OK for cast bullets.
The biggest cost is also the part that needs to have the most attention – The Barrel Blank. The first barrel that I built was on a Douglas (304 776-1341) 4140 .40 cal. 1-16 twist straight blank. This has proved to be a very accurate barrel. To date the only work I have done with it has been out to 200 yards. The biggest problem with using a straight blank is contouring it to what you need. I had a local custom barrel maker (Bull Barry Barrels) turn and chamber it for me. Part of this turned out to be a cost that I didn’t need if I would have spent more time to think things through.
The second barrel was a Badger Barrel (262 857-6950) .38 call Octagon. I faxed Ernie a drawing of what I wanted and he furnished it in a very timely manner. The cost was less than a straight blank and having to turn it to what I wanted. This barrel has one of the smoothest bores I have seen. Again only shot it out to 200 yards but have got some very good groups. My suggestion would be to purchase a Barrel that is contoured from the maker. For ease of machining I have the barrel short chambered, cut to length and crowned before any more work is done.
The next big problem is the lug that welds to the barrel. I produced a drawing to have this part machined, see attached drawing 000-001. The most economical way to have this part made was to go to a shop that works with CNC equipment. Again I went to a local shop, Advanced Manufacturing Technologies (801 973-9462) to furnish me this part. The cost for one part was just about as much as ten so I ordered ten. When I made the drawing I tried to give my self enough room to hand fit the locking lug. So there is a small amount of leeway in this lug. It has worked out very well for me.
The next problem is to locate the lug on the barrel, to do this I built a fixture. See attached drawing 000-002. To set this fixture I use the stock barrel from the action
that I’m building for. And again there is a small amount of leeway in the lug for hand fitting. After the fixture and lug are in place I use a small C-clamp to hold every thing in place.
Fixture, Lug and Barrel clamped together for welding.
Before clamping the lug to the barrel there is a small amount of pre-fit-up that can be done. I make sure the lug will fit snug in the action on its own. This may take a little polishing to accomplish but just go slow.
The next step will be to weld the lug to the barrel. I had the lug machined from 4130 material and have had real good results welding it to 4140 barrels. The barrel, lug, fixture and C-clamps are all pre-heated to 250 to 300 deg. I use a modified rod oven for this.
The lug is TIG welded to the barrel using 4130 filler wire. I tack weld the side of the lug that you can get to first then remove the fixture, re-clamp and weld the other side. After welding remove the C-clamp and wrapped in a heat blanket to control how it cools and returned to the oven. The oven is then turned down to start cooling. This should take about 8 to 12 hours.
Next is fitting the barrel/lug assembly to the action. This is done with standard gunsmith procedures. The locking lug is over size so it can be hand fit to the action. This is one of those “take a little off” and try type things.
Next is the fore end lug. This is spot welded on the stock barrel. I opted to use a dove tail to retain the lug. See attached drawing 000-003. I had a local machinist turn out ten of these to go with the ten lugs. This can be cut and installed at the same time the sights are installed.
Next the barrel will need to be finish chambered and checked for head space.
Again this is just standard gunsmith procedures. Ejector parts are available from Brownell (800 741-0015) or Gunparts (845 679-2417). Install the ejector parts and check for final fit to action.
All that is left to do is remove the ejector part, polish and blue the finished barrel.
This has been a very educational project for me and I have enjoyed the outcome.
I have come to the conclusion that it is no harder to build a barrel for a H&R than it is for a TC Contender and I’m working on a way to make a adjustable lock for the SB2 frame.
In closing I would like to say that every thing that I have done can be done by any one else. There is no magic to making a barrel like this and I hope this information helps some one else have as much enjoyment as I have had.
Swede-Nelson
Most of the work to this date has been on straight wall black powder cartridges for the Buffalo Classic. This covers .32-40, .38-55, .40-65, .45-70 and .50-70.
H&R Offers a .38-55 and .45-70 barrel but the rifling is very shallow and in my opinion
just OK for cast bullets.
The biggest cost is also the part that needs to have the most attention – The Barrel Blank. The first barrel that I built was on a Douglas (304 776-1341) 4140 .40 cal. 1-16 twist straight blank. This has proved to be a very accurate barrel. To date the only work I have done with it has been out to 200 yards. The biggest problem with using a straight blank is contouring it to what you need. I had a local custom barrel maker (Bull Barry Barrels) turn and chamber it for me. Part of this turned out to be a cost that I didn’t need if I would have spent more time to think things through.
The second barrel was a Badger Barrel (262 857-6950) .38 call Octagon. I faxed Ernie a drawing of what I wanted and he furnished it in a very timely manner. The cost was less than a straight blank and having to turn it to what I wanted. This barrel has one of the smoothest bores I have seen. Again only shot it out to 200 yards but have got some very good groups. My suggestion would be to purchase a Barrel that is contoured from the maker. For ease of machining I have the barrel short chambered, cut to length and crowned before any more work is done.
The next big problem is the lug that welds to the barrel. I produced a drawing to have this part machined, see attached drawing 000-001. The most economical way to have this part made was to go to a shop that works with CNC equipment. Again I went to a local shop, Advanced Manufacturing Technologies (801 973-9462) to furnish me this part. The cost for one part was just about as much as ten so I ordered ten. When I made the drawing I tried to give my self enough room to hand fit the locking lug. So there is a small amount of leeway in this lug. It has worked out very well for me.
The next problem is to locate the lug on the barrel, to do this I built a fixture. See attached drawing 000-002. To set this fixture I use the stock barrel from the action
that I’m building for. And again there is a small amount of leeway in the lug for hand fitting. After the fixture and lug are in place I use a small C-clamp to hold every thing in place.
Fixture, Lug and Barrel clamped together for welding.
Before clamping the lug to the barrel there is a small amount of pre-fit-up that can be done. I make sure the lug will fit snug in the action on its own. This may take a little polishing to accomplish but just go slow.
The next step will be to weld the lug to the barrel. I had the lug machined from 4130 material and have had real good results welding it to 4140 barrels. The barrel, lug, fixture and C-clamps are all pre-heated to 250 to 300 deg. I use a modified rod oven for this.
The lug is TIG welded to the barrel using 4130 filler wire. I tack weld the side of the lug that you can get to first then remove the fixture, re-clamp and weld the other side. After welding remove the C-clamp and wrapped in a heat blanket to control how it cools and returned to the oven. The oven is then turned down to start cooling. This should take about 8 to 12 hours.
Next is fitting the barrel/lug assembly to the action. This is done with standard gunsmith procedures. The locking lug is over size so it can be hand fit to the action. This is one of those “take a little off” and try type things.
Next is the fore end lug. This is spot welded on the stock barrel. I opted to use a dove tail to retain the lug. See attached drawing 000-003. I had a local machinist turn out ten of these to go with the ten lugs. This can be cut and installed at the same time the sights are installed.
Next the barrel will need to be finish chambered and checked for head space.
Again this is just standard gunsmith procedures. Ejector parts are available from Brownell (800 741-0015) or Gunparts (845 679-2417). Install the ejector parts and check for final fit to action.
All that is left to do is remove the ejector part, polish and blue the finished barrel.
This has been a very educational project for me and I have enjoyed the outcome.
I have come to the conclusion that it is no harder to build a barrel for a H&R than it is for a TC Contender and I’m working on a way to make a adjustable lock for the SB2 frame.
In closing I would like to say that every thing that I have done can be done by any one else. There is no magic to making a barrel like this and I hope this information helps some one else have as much enjoyment as I have had.
Swede-Nelson
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