Tuesday, May 26, 2009
6" AR57
The AR-57 PDW Upper 6 inch barrel is a direct replacement for your pistol or SBR AR upper (all NFA rules apply). The complete assembly installs in seconds and readily accepts the innovated FN 50 round magazine. This revolutionary design instantly provides a decisive advantage for experienced shooters or weekend plinkers. Low recoil, optimum balance and exceptional shooting ability allows accurate hits to 250 yards. A FFL is not required to purchase this item.
Features:
For pistol and SBR applications only: All NFA rules apply
Precision ER Shaw six inch barrel
Up to 50 rounds of 5.7 firepower
Spent brass is expelled through empty magwell
Scope rails on the top and bottom of the rifle and attachment points on the sides
Reliability as a primary feature
Easy maintenance, no gas system
Important information you need to know before placing an order. This AR-57 six inch upper is available in the following configurations:
Threaded 10 x 1 mm to fit Gemtech FN 5.7 suppressor
Threaded 1/2 x 28 to fit 22 or 9mm suppressor maximum diameter 1.25 inch
This AR-57 six inch upper CAN NOT be used without a six inch minimum length suppressor or six inch barrel extension.
Suppressor and/or extension are NOT supplied and must be purchased separately.
Standard aluminum .22 suppressors will NOT handle the heat and pressure produced by the 5.7 cartridge.
Verify this application with your suppressor manufacture before purchasing.
Features:
For pistol and SBR applications only: All NFA rules apply
Precision ER Shaw six inch barrel
Up to 50 rounds of 5.7 firepower
Spent brass is expelled through empty magwell
Scope rails on the top and bottom of the rifle and attachment points on the sides
Reliability as a primary feature
Easy maintenance, no gas system
Important information you need to know before placing an order. This AR-57 six inch upper is available in the following configurations:
Threaded 10 x 1 mm to fit Gemtech FN 5.7 suppressor
Threaded 1/2 x 28 to fit 22 or 9mm suppressor maximum diameter 1.25 inch
This AR-57 six inch upper CAN NOT be used without a six inch minimum length suppressor or six inch barrel extension.
Suppressor and/or extension are NOT supplied and must be purchased separately.
Standard aluminum .22 suppressors will NOT handle the heat and pressure produced by the 5.7 cartridge.
Verify this application with your suppressor manufacture before purchasing.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Ammo Stats according to MO
FiveseveN Pistol P90 PS90
27 grain Aluminum core HP "Ultra RapTOR"
2,600fps - 391 FtLbs 3,053fps - 560 FtLbs 3,340 fps - 666 FtLbs
40 grain lead core "ProtecTOR"
2,092fps - 389 FtLbs 2,538 fps - 572 FtLbs 2,762 fps - 678 FtLbs
36 grain frangible core "VarminTOR"
2,202fps - 388 FtLbs 2,690fps - 574 FtLbs 2,923fps - 683 FtLbs
45 grain Barnes TSX "X-TerminaTOR"
1,975fps - 390 FtLbs 2,380fps - 576 FtLbs 2,585fps - 668 FtLbs
55 grain FMJ "PenetraTOR"
1,800fps - 385 FtLbs 2,150fps - 560 FtLbs 2,300fps - 660 FtLbs
55 grain FMJ tracer "IlluminaTOR"
Same ballistics as above
FN SS195
1,957 fps - 230 FtLbs 2,393 fps - 343 FtLbs 2,647 fps - 420 FtLbs
FN SS197
1,753 fps - 273 FtLbs 2,175 fps - 416 FtLbs 2,399 fps - 511 FtLbs
FN SS190
2050 fps - 261 FtLbs 2,400 fps - 358 FtLbs 2,650 fps - 436 FtLbs
27 grain Aluminum core HP "Ultra RapTOR"
2,600fps - 391 FtLbs 3,053fps - 560 FtLbs 3,340 fps - 666 FtLbs
40 grain lead core "ProtecTOR"
2,092fps - 389 FtLbs 2,538 fps - 572 FtLbs 2,762 fps - 678 FtLbs
36 grain frangible core "VarminTOR"
2,202fps - 388 FtLbs 2,690fps - 574 FtLbs 2,923fps - 683 FtLbs
45 grain Barnes TSX "X-TerminaTOR"
1,975fps - 390 FtLbs 2,380fps - 576 FtLbs 2,585fps - 668 FtLbs
55 grain FMJ "PenetraTOR"
1,800fps - 385 FtLbs 2,150fps - 560 FtLbs 2,300fps - 660 FtLbs
55 grain FMJ tracer "IlluminaTOR"
Same ballistics as above
FN SS195
1,957 fps - 230 FtLbs 2,393 fps - 343 FtLbs 2,647 fps - 420 FtLbs
FN SS197
1,753 fps - 273 FtLbs 2,175 fps - 416 FtLbs 2,399 fps - 511 FtLbs
FN SS190
2050 fps - 261 FtLbs 2,400 fps - 358 FtLbs 2,650 fps - 436 FtLbs
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Monday, April 06, 2009
P90/PS90 Extended Cocking Handle
Not to my taste, but someone might like 'em...
P90/PS90 Extended Cocking Handle. If you own a P90 or PS90 you know that the left & right side cocking handles are on the small side. FSE USA now manufactures an extended and enlarged cocking handle for this rifle. CNC machined from tough Delrin, (read more...)
P90/PS90 Extended Cocking Handle. If you own a P90 or PS90 you know that the left & right side cocking handles are on the small side. FSE USA now manufactures an extended and enlarged cocking handle for this rifle. CNC machined from tough Delrin, (read more...)
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Desert Ammo Supply LLC
Welcome to Desert Ammo Supply, your reliable source for 5.7x28mm specialized ammunition and a variety of other calibers at the best prices. All sales are restricted to individual state and federal laws. Cannot ship to AK, HI or Puerto Rico.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
HK9 SD Tactical's load tables (based on MO's data)
HK9 SD Tactical's load tables (based on MO's/EA's data)
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
More Barrel Liners
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(erjyugy2aiik0f5520z5y555))/categories/tableList.aspx?catID=14&subID=142&styleID=483
Barrel liners for breech loading rifles & pistols are hammer forged of special Chromium Molybdenum alloy steel, in the U.S.A. Each liner is hammer forged over a special mandrel, producing an extremely smooth and uniform bore of the desired dimensions. We offer these calibers, twist rates, bores, and diameters.
A skilled gunsmith with proper tools can easily install Track's precision liners. Specify the caliber, bore diameter, groove diameter, twist rate, outside diameter, and desired length in inches. We cut liners to your desired length, and ship quickly, typically within 5 to 7 days. Restore your old barrel.
Price is per inch. Specify the exact length, in inches, you require.
Quantity: Part Number: Description: Price:
LINER-22-CEN Liner for .22 centerfire, .219" bore, .224" groove, 1-16" twist, 6 grooves, 1/2" OD, per inch
http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1211426431
TJ's Enterprises
3652 Neltner Rd
Alexandria, KY 41001
(859) 635-5560
http://www.redmansrifling.com/available_liners.htm
Liner Specifications
.22 Rimfire Long Rifle Liner Specifications
Length - 27". Allow approximately 3/4" for trimming.
Outside Diameter - 5/16" (.311" - .312")
Groove Diameter- .223", 1-16" twist
25-20 Liner Specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .435"
Groove Diameter - .257"; 1-14" twist
32-20 Liner Specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .505"
Groove Diameter - .311"; 1-20" twist
38-40 & 44-40 Liner Specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .590"
38-40 Groove Diameter - .400", 1-25" twist
44-40 Groove Diameter - .428", 1-25" twist
17 Caliber Rimfire Liner specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .311"
Groove Diameter - .172", 1-9" twist and 1-10" twist
All of the above liners are available through Brownell's Inc. if you are a dealer and would like a quote for a 100 liner minimum, please call us at (509) 826-5512.
We do have longer length liners over the 25" standard, in calibers 25-20, 32-20, 38-40 and 44-40. Please call for prices (509) 826-5512.
https://www.castbulletassoc.org/forum/view_topic.php?id=2887&forum_id=21&print=1
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=14143.msg199575
I have relined several rifles, Remington Rolling Blocks and Martini's to 45 Colt, 45-70 and 50-70. The two 45 caliber liners are 5/8" diameter and the 50-70 liners are 11/16" diameter. These diameters leave pleanty of material for chambering. The best way to chamber the liners for these rimmed cartridges is to have the front edge of the rim butt up against the rear of the liner and not worry about chambering for the rim itself.
I epoxy the liners in the drilled out barrels and I have some that have been in for twenty (20) or more years with no sign of loosening. When the liners are chambered in this manner a fired or new case can be used to to set the headspace in the rifle while the epoxy is hardening. You can cut any excess liner off after the epoxy is set and face off the muzzle and the liner or you can cut the liner to length before installation and maintain the original muzzle configuration. Extractor cuts are then cut using the original barrel cuts as a guide. This usually can be done by hand with suitable files.
45-70 liners used to be available from Numerich Arms but I don't think that they handle them any more. Recently I have been buying my liners from T. J.'s Gateway Enterprises, 3652 Neltner Road, Alexandria, KY 41001, 859/635-5560. I have been very pleased with them. They are good shooters and he sells them by the inch so you can get whatever length that you need. A caliber and price list is available if you are interested.
This has extended the useful life of otherwise worn out guns without going to the cost of a rebarrel job and maintains all external barrel markings and sight mounting cuts or holes.
Yes, I chamber the liner before installation. As noted before, I do not chamber the rim portion of the case in the liner and that way you can use an empty cartridge case to set the headspace before the epoxy hardens, being careful not to epoxy the case into the liner. A little release agent (oil or grease) on the case and in the chamber solves this potential problem.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=14791
The Rifle H&R Never Knew They Had ...
H&R Pardner Shotgun - 28ga
TJ's Enterprise 25-35 liner, 1:10 Twist
25-20 WCF Chamber Reamer
H&R 22 Hornet Extractor
Front Globe - Swiss Pin Post
Long Ranger Vernier Rear Sight
Pope Palm Rest
and one has a nice SS Gallery and Range Rifle
the considerations are: The H&R shotgun barrel will have to be the correct size for the caliber liner and the pressure of the final rifle caliber has to be less than that of the shotgun.
The best liners are made by TJ's Enterprise. No website, so call and get the liners available:
TJ's Enterprises
3652 Neltner Rd
Alexandria, KY 41001
(859) 635-5560
Reamer ... your choice of vendor
Extractors ... Numrich, the price is much cheaper than ordering from H&R
Any front globe. I got mine from Jeff's Outfitters
Vernier, your choice dependent on price. Mine was from Dixie Gun Works
Palm rest ... Jeff's Outfitters has 2 styles. I like the Pope.
Optional: Brass casting for a Schuetzen butt plate. I'm looking
Add: Lathe and milling machine, proper cutters, steel sleeves and 4 Minute Epoxy ... That's It!
PS: The 'new' rifle breech locks up like a TANK HATCH!
cost was $389 without the cost of the reamer ... that was free.
Robert, tis true in all respects, except there is a 'gotcha' ... http://www.hr1871.com/Support/accessoryProgram.aspx
H&R doesn't sell barrels outright ... they have to be fitted at the factory.
I could have gone this way - I have the Buffalo Classic with a fitted 38-55 barrel also. But I chose to go this route just to have another 'complete' rifle
PS: Took it to the range today for it's Maiden:
CCI SR Primer
5gr Unique ... for gallery load
Meister 85gr Bullet
0.002 neck tension ...
velocity - 1170fps
25yds - X's and tight 10's
50yds - 1 1/2" group ... our gallery match range (offhand with 25 ring Schuetzen targets)
100yds - tough on this little peanuts at this distance with 11mph wind - 8" group
The original H&R with the same frame and heat treatment as the shotguns was factory chambered for .357 Magnum, .357 Maximum, .44 Magnum, and 30-30.
The newer 'rifle' frame is only needed for 'modern' high intensity rifle cartridges.
All H&R singleshots have a lot of metal around the chamber as they were originally sized for large diameter shotgun cartridges. Also, consider that the above 'pistol' cartridges are only loaded to 36,000 psi and the 30-30 to 40,000 while its head diameter is even small than the .44 Magnum so they both produce almost identical head thrust.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showpage?saleitemid=129341&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=10636
Callahan Barrel Liner 22 Caliber Rimfire 5/16" Outside Diameter 1 in 16" Twist 26" Chrome Moly
This unchambered 22 caliber liner is a good choice for lining a worn out 22 caliber rimfire rifle barrel, helping to get an old rifle out of the safe and back into the field.
Attention!
Please inspect barrels and blanks carefully for manufacturer bleminshes and/or defects before installation. Unfortunately, once installed or fired, we cannot accept returns.
Technical Information
Notes:
This is an unchambered 22 caliber tube used to reline a rimfire barrel
Requires drilling out the barrel and then brazing or otherwise affixing the liner in the barrel (green Loctite, for example, will hold it)
Requires cutting a chamber after installation
Barrel liners for breech loading rifles & pistols are hammer forged of special Chromium Molybdenum alloy steel, in the U.S.A. Each liner is hammer forged over a special mandrel, producing an extremely smooth and uniform bore of the desired dimensions. We offer these calibers, twist rates, bores, and diameters.
A skilled gunsmith with proper tools can easily install Track's precision liners. Specify the caliber, bore diameter, groove diameter, twist rate, outside diameter, and desired length in inches. We cut liners to your desired length, and ship quickly, typically within 5 to 7 days. Restore your old barrel.
Price is per inch. Specify the exact length, in inches, you require.
Quantity: Part Number: Description: Price:
LINER-22-CEN Liner for .22 centerfire, .219" bore, .224" groove, 1-16" twist, 6 grooves, 1/2" OD, per inch
http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1211426431
TJ's Enterprises
3652 Neltner Rd
Alexandria, KY 41001
(859) 635-5560
http://www.redmansrifling.com/available_liners.htm
Liner Specifications
.22 Rimfire Long Rifle Liner Specifications
Length - 27". Allow approximately 3/4" for trimming.
Outside Diameter - 5/16" (.311" - .312")
Groove Diameter- .223", 1-16" twist
25-20 Liner Specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .435"
Groove Diameter - .257"; 1-14" twist
32-20 Liner Specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .505"
Groove Diameter - .311"; 1-20" twist
38-40 & 44-40 Liner Specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .590"
38-40 Groove Diameter - .400", 1-25" twist
44-40 Groove Diameter - .428", 1-25" twist
17 Caliber Rimfire Liner specifications
Outside Diameter - Approximately .311"
Groove Diameter - .172", 1-9" twist and 1-10" twist
All of the above liners are available through Brownell's Inc. if you are a dealer and would like a quote for a 100 liner minimum, please call us at (509) 826-5512.
We do have longer length liners over the 25" standard, in calibers 25-20, 32-20, 38-40 and 44-40. Please call for prices (509) 826-5512.
https://www.castbulletassoc.org/forum/view_topic.php?id=2887&forum_id=21&print=1
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=14143.msg199575
I have relined several rifles, Remington Rolling Blocks and Martini's to 45 Colt, 45-70 and 50-70. The two 45 caliber liners are 5/8" diameter and the 50-70 liners are 11/16" diameter. These diameters leave pleanty of material for chambering. The best way to chamber the liners for these rimmed cartridges is to have the front edge of the rim butt up against the rear of the liner and not worry about chambering for the rim itself.
I epoxy the liners in the drilled out barrels and I have some that have been in for twenty (20) or more years with no sign of loosening. When the liners are chambered in this manner a fired or new case can be used to to set the headspace in the rifle while the epoxy is hardening. You can cut any excess liner off after the epoxy is set and face off the muzzle and the liner or you can cut the liner to length before installation and maintain the original muzzle configuration. Extractor cuts are then cut using the original barrel cuts as a guide. This usually can be done by hand with suitable files.
45-70 liners used to be available from Numerich Arms but I don't think that they handle them any more. Recently I have been buying my liners from T. J.'s Gateway Enterprises, 3652 Neltner Road, Alexandria, KY 41001, 859/635-5560. I have been very pleased with them. They are good shooters and he sells them by the inch so you can get whatever length that you need. A caliber and price list is available if you are interested.
This has extended the useful life of otherwise worn out guns without going to the cost of a rebarrel job and maintains all external barrel markings and sight mounting cuts or holes.
Yes, I chamber the liner before installation. As noted before, I do not chamber the rim portion of the case in the liner and that way you can use an empty cartridge case to set the headspace before the epoxy hardens, being careful not to epoxy the case into the liner. A little release agent (oil or grease) on the case and in the chamber solves this potential problem.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=14791
The Rifle H&R Never Knew They Had ...
H&R Pardner Shotgun - 28ga
TJ's Enterprise 25-35 liner, 1:10 Twist
25-20 WCF Chamber Reamer
H&R 22 Hornet Extractor
Front Globe - Swiss Pin Post
Long Ranger Vernier Rear Sight
Pope Palm Rest
and one has a nice SS Gallery and Range Rifle
the considerations are: The H&R shotgun barrel will have to be the correct size for the caliber liner and the pressure of the final rifle caliber has to be less than that of the shotgun.
The best liners are made by TJ's Enterprise. No website, so call and get the liners available:
TJ's Enterprises
3652 Neltner Rd
Alexandria, KY 41001
(859) 635-5560
Reamer ... your choice of vendor
Extractors ... Numrich, the price is much cheaper than ordering from H&R
Any front globe. I got mine from Jeff's Outfitters
Vernier, your choice dependent on price. Mine was from Dixie Gun Works
Palm rest ... Jeff's Outfitters has 2 styles. I like the Pope.
Optional: Brass casting for a Schuetzen butt plate. I'm looking
Add: Lathe and milling machine, proper cutters, steel sleeves and 4 Minute Epoxy ... That's It!
PS: The 'new' rifle breech locks up like a TANK HATCH!
cost was $389 without the cost of the reamer ... that was free.
Robert, tis true in all respects, except there is a 'gotcha' ... http://www.hr1871.com/Support/accessoryProgram.aspx
H&R doesn't sell barrels outright ... they have to be fitted at the factory.
I could have gone this way - I have the Buffalo Classic with a fitted 38-55 barrel also. But I chose to go this route just to have another 'complete' rifle
PS: Took it to the range today for it's Maiden:
CCI SR Primer
5gr Unique ... for gallery load
Meister 85gr Bullet
0.002 neck tension ...
velocity - 1170fps
25yds - X's and tight 10's
50yds - 1 1/2" group ... our gallery match range (offhand with 25 ring Schuetzen targets)
100yds - tough on this little peanuts at this distance with 11mph wind - 8" group
The original H&R with the same frame and heat treatment as the shotguns was factory chambered for .357 Magnum, .357 Maximum, .44 Magnum, and 30-30.
The newer 'rifle' frame is only needed for 'modern' high intensity rifle cartridges.
All H&R singleshots have a lot of metal around the chamber as they were originally sized for large diameter shotgun cartridges. Also, consider that the above 'pistol' cartridges are only loaded to 36,000 psi and the 30-30 to 40,000 while its head diameter is even small than the .44 Magnum so they both produce almost identical head thrust.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showpage?saleitemid=129341&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=10636
Callahan Barrel Liner 22 Caliber Rimfire 5/16" Outside Diameter 1 in 16" Twist 26" Chrome Moly
This unchambered 22 caliber liner is a good choice for lining a worn out 22 caliber rimfire rifle barrel, helping to get an old rifle out of the safe and back into the field.
Attention!
Please inspect barrels and blanks carefully for manufacturer bleminshes and/or defects before installation. Unfortunately, once installed or fired, we cannot accept returns.
Technical Information
Notes:
This is an unchambered 22 caliber tube used to reline a rimfire barrel
Requires drilling out the barrel and then brazing or otherwise affixing the liner in the barrel (green Loctite, for example, will hold it)
Requires cutting a chamber after installation
Friday, February 13, 2009
Another potential source for NEF 5.7x28
For either barrel machining is always the same- $225
For a Green mountain barrel blank $100
Green mountain barrels are full bull and not lapped but tend to shoot very well.
Mcgowan Barrel $185
These are lapped, tend to be a bit tighter, & shoot very well for the price point. I can also get these in most profiles, I have a full bull same profile as the chamber area in stock in 14 twist.
These are stub barrels and you do have to sacrifice a barrel to create it.
The only reason I suggested the Hornet (Regular or K-Hornet) was in either form the balistics are better, dies and brass more plentiful and lots of help available from others allready shooting it. Most gunstores have ammo on the shelf. And its a reamer I allready own.
For a Green mountain barrel blank $100
Green mountain barrels are full bull and not lapped but tend to shoot very well.
Mcgowan Barrel $185
These are lapped, tend to be a bit tighter, & shoot very well for the price point. I can also get these in most profiles, I have a full bull same profile as the chamber area in stock in 14 twist.
These are stub barrels and you do have to sacrifice a barrel to create it.
The only reason I suggested the Hornet (Regular or K-Hornet) was in either form the balistics are better, dies and brass more plentiful and lots of help available from others allready shooting it. Most gunstores have ammo on the shelf. And its a reamer I allready own.
Tuesday, February 03, 2009
Lilja - Custom Deep Hole Drilling
Custom Deep Hole Drilling
We do offer a deephole drilling service for persons and companies needing that type of machining work. Over the years we have drilled and reamed holes for other barrel makers and custom action makers.
There are other industries too that require deep holes. We have drilled holes for customers in the computer, aerospace, oil, and eyeglass industries.
Recently we have been making a lot of smooth bore barrels for customers shooting projectiles at body armor, helmets and eye protection devices. We have tooling for long barrels (up to 45") in .15, .22, .25, and .375 calibers.
If you have a special project or production run of parts requiring a deep hole, please inquire and we'll give you a quote. There are some limitations on material size and the material must be symmetrical in profile.
Longer Barrels?
Here is a picture of a 120" long .25 caliber barrel we made for a research lab. It is four 30" sections coupled together.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is a hole we drilled for an experimental long-stroke, small bore diameter cylinder for an R&D project in the oil industry.
Below is a tube for ‘shooting’ ¼” diameter ball bearings at safety glasses for testing.
Long Barrels? Here is a photo of a 90” long barrel we made for a military customer.
This barrel was made from three 30” pieces coupled together.
We do offer a deephole drilling service for persons and companies needing that type of machining work. Over the years we have drilled and reamed holes for other barrel makers and custom action makers.
There are other industries too that require deep holes. We have drilled holes for customers in the computer, aerospace, oil, and eyeglass industries.
Recently we have been making a lot of smooth bore barrels for customers shooting projectiles at body armor, helmets and eye protection devices. We have tooling for long barrels (up to 45") in .15, .22, .25, and .375 calibers.
If you have a special project or production run of parts requiring a deep hole, please inquire and we'll give you a quote. There are some limitations on material size and the material must be symmetrical in profile.
Longer Barrels?
Here is a picture of a 120" long .25 caliber barrel we made for a research lab. It is four 30" sections coupled together.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is a hole we drilled for an experimental long-stroke, small bore diameter cylinder for an R&D project in the oil industry.
Below is a tube for ‘shooting’ ¼” diameter ball bearings at safety glasses for testing.
Long Barrels? Here is a photo of a 90” long barrel we made for a military customer.
This barrel was made from three 30” pieces coupled together.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Handloading On A Shoestring
Today a myriad of advanced handloading equipment is available in unprecedented profusion of variety and specialization. Confusion awaits the newcomer to the otherwise simple pursuit of reloading spent cartridge cases. Advanced design presses exist in abundance from all manufacturers, and to examine a comprehensive die-list from any major manufacturer is dizzying to the inexperienced handloader.
Aside from a multitude of seemingly comparable products from which to choose, is the intimidating, if not seemingly insurmountable financial outlay before the prospective handloading newcomer. Reading current monthly firearms and handloading journals serves only to compound the confusion, as the writers penning articles promote only the latest and greatest of gear from the most prestigious manufacturers. As a consequence, the simplicity of handloading becomes lost amid a sea of bigger and more complex equipment costing more with each model change.
Unfortunately, this focus on bigger, better and more advanced equipment dissuades many newcomers to handloading, simply from financial constraints alone. The average prospective handloading neophyte centers his focus upon either cost savings in loaded ammo by rolling his own, or loading specialty rounds that are not commercially available over the counter. In either case, a casual interest in the pursuit of home-grown loads wanes in the face of exorbitant startup expenses of perceived necessities just to begin handloading.
The purpose of this article is two-fold. First to dispel the myth that handloading requires hundreds of dollars worth of equipment and vast expanses of bench-tops and storage space. Secondly, to demonstrate that even given the barest minimum investment, outstanding quality in handloaded ammunition is attainable with the simplest of tools.
While there are many other paths for the beginning handloader to begin the journey in this quest for quality excellence and economy in handloading, few will question the validity or wisdom in choosing the Classic Lee Loader kit as a centerpiece for beginning this journey. These tools have been in continuous production for more than thirty years, in a profusion of caliber choices during that period of time. It has always provided a practical, affordable, compact set of tools capable of turning fired brass into first class loaded ammunition when administered with judicious care and attention to detail.
The classic Lee Loader comes complete for one caliber, neatly contained in a compartmentalized plastic box with all the necessary tools (not including a non-marring hammer), comprehensive instructions and a concise, caliber specific table of loading data. While a casual first glance at these kits may not be impressive, the 1,000 yard world championship record group fired from a rifle, held for many years, was shot using ammunition loaded on one of these compact loading kits!
Moving on down the list of tools and equipment necessary for handloading, the list is pretty short in terms of immediate pure necessities, and as such preserves a fragile budget nicely. I’ll present both the list of equipment used in the preparation of this article, and a bare-bones pure necessity list in the chart below. Too, the actual purchase price of the equipment used in writing this article is listed in the chart, and the itemized tools were purchased over-the-counter in Spokane, Washington on 25 June 2004. Included for reference for both availability and price are three online suppliers and the prices posted on their websites dated 27 June 2004. Those blank places in the chart indicate that the listed item was not available from the supplier listed in the column. There are vast differences in pricing on most handloading equipment, so it does pay to shop around.
Equipment Used In Article (Prices as of June 2004)
Item Description Retail Spokane, WA Graf & Sons FactorySales.com Lock Stock & Barrel
Classic Lee Loader 12.99 15.99 14.95 14.50
Lee Chamfer Tool 1.99 2.69 2.88 2.35
Lee Case Trimmer & Lock Stud 2.99 4.39 3.49 3.75
Lee Case Length Gauge & Shell Holder 2.99 4.39 3.49 3.75
Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner 1.29 1.89 1.89 1.50
Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit 5.99 7.59 6.15
Modern Reloading 2nd Edition 14.99 13.99 27.50 11.75
Hornady One-Shot Case Lube 4.49 6.99 6.25
MTM Case Guard P50 Ammo Box .89 1.49 1.11
Total Cost 48.61 59.41
Bare-Bones Basics
Classic Lee Loader 12.99 15.99 14.95 14.50
Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner 1.29 1.89 1.89 1.50
Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit 5.99 7.59 6.15
Total Cost 20.27 25.47 22.99
Getting the financial aspect of this article aired-out early will dissipate uneasiness over the anticipated bottom line which always seems to loom at the end of every handloading article dealing with various aspects of reloading equipment. As evidenced from the chart above, obtaining everything used in preparation of this presentation costs less than $60 US. Too, if the budget is really strained, getting started may be done for about the cost of fifty factory loaded revolver cartridges!
While the bare-bones list will allow loading fired brass, and produce good loaded ammo, the expanded list offers more loading options and a margin of safety and convenience as well.
The workhorse of this array of tools is the classic Lee Loader, complete for a specific caliber.
In addition to the Lee Loader Kit, are a few more small accessory items, while optional, they can and do make the difference between a simple reload, and a crafted handload. In addition, should a person decide to move beyond the Lee Loader with a full-sized press and conventional dies, these accessories still fill a both useful and necessary niche. These items include a primer-pocket cleaning tool, case trimmer lock-stud and cutter, and case trimmer shell-holder and case-length gauge. A closer look at these accessory items as we come to their application in the handloading process will be presented.
Beginning the reloading process, the first step, after assembling your tools at a suitable workplace, and procuring a solid base for your loading tools is to decap the fired brass. This is accomplished by simply placing the fired brass case into the decapping die, shown below, and using the punch with the small diameter needle-like end, inserting this end into the brass case, through the flash-hole and then rapping lightly with a non-marring hammer on the decapping rod, thus popping the spent primer out of the case. By necessity, the primer must be removed from underneath the decapping base to allow a space for the primer from the next fired case when it too is decapped.
Note the surface used for all steps using the Lee Loader is nothing more than a piece of scrap 2”x 6” lumber placed on the table top. It serves the purpose well, and is both portable, and disposable, as over time the surface becomes quite pock-marked with use of the Lee Loader performing various steps necessary in the reloading process.
Once the fired brass cases are decapped, it becomes necessary to clean them prior to resizing. Cleaning the cases prevents surface grime, powder residue and other abrasive agents from scratching the interior surface of the reloading die. While this seems a trivial step, the purpose is not necessarily to enhance cosmetic appearances of the brass, but to protect the machined surfaces of the resizing die chamber. Simply use some #000 steel wool as shown in the photo below. It only takes a few seconds with a twisting motion to clean the brass of outer grime and residue.
Cleaning the now-empty primer pockets is best done at this stage of the operation as well. This is where one of those “optional accessory items” listed in the chart of tools and expenses really pays off! Cleaning carbon residue from the primer pockets insures uniform primer seating depth, and also mandates a visual inspection of the pocket and at a glance note the flash-hole is clear of any obstructions. Note the difference between the untouched and cleaned primer pockets below.
With both the exterior of the brass and the primer pockets clean, lubing the exterior surfaces of the case is necessary to prevent sticking in the resizing die. While there are a number of excellent products for this purpose, and any of them will suffice nicely, I choose to use Hornady One-Shot spray case lubricant for the purposes of this article. Many other options are available commercially, such as Imperial Sizing Die Wax, RCBS Case Lube, Lee Case Lube as well as home-brewed alternatives varying from dissolved Ivory Soap in water, to glycerin-based mixtures to plain-old kitchen paraffin applied to the brass to prevent sticking cases in the sizing die. Admittedly One-Shot is a somewhat more expensive case lubricant when compared with many of the other options. I simply like the performance, lack of mess and convenience of the Hornady spray product. Whatever option for the task used, at this point the cases must be lubricated prior to sizing.
Once the lube is applied to the deprimed and cleaned cases, they may be resized. The case is inserted into the die, as seen in the photograph below. Note the orientation of the sizing die when the brass is inserted for resizing.
Using a non-marring hammer, drive the case fully into the sizing die, so that the rim of the case is flush with the bottom of the sizing die. Some cartridges/calibers require much more force than others to accomplish this task.
The next step does two functions. First a new primer is seated into the clean primer pocket, and concurrently the case is partially extracted from the resizing die. Before conducting this phase of the operation, it is necessary to consult the reloading data to be used, to determine the correct primer for the selected load. Don’t be mislead, all primers are NOT the same. Many loads are very primer specific. Be sure, and not sorry.
Center a new primer, anvil-up in the priming base (the base with the bullet seating stem coming off the side and a spring loaded base in the center). Then, center the resizing die (containing the resized brass case) over the primer on the priming base. Then, using the long, blunt ended punch, drive the brass out of the sizing die chamber and onto the primer under it. After just a few rounds a “feel” for this process is attained, and the procedure goes quickly and smoothly once a routine is established.
Once the case is successfully primed, remove the sizing die from the priming base, and the case will protrude somewhat out of the die as seen below.
Center the sizing die over the decapping base, and using the blunt-end punch and a sharp rap from a non-marring hammer, eject the now resized and primed brass case from the sizing die body.
Leaving the brass case in the decapping body, use the expanding/flaring plug to expand and slightly flare the case mouth to accept a bullet. Actually very little force is necessary for this step, and light taps of the hammer are all that is needed. Excessive force here will only ruin cases by collapsing them. Don’t overdo a good thing!
Depending upon the cartridge, the number times the brass has been loaded, and the pressure intensity of those loads, the case may, and will stretch in length. This can cause a hazardous condition, and requires trimming brass to a uniform length both for uniformity of the loads, and safety as well. For this purpose the Lee Case Trimmer is included in the list of desirable equipment in the chart at the beginning of this article. The Lee tool greatly simplifies the process, and insures that each and every case is trimmed to a specific uniform length without necessitating the procurement of a costly dial caliper to measure brass. Usually brass only needs trimming every third to fifth reloading, depending upon the cartridge and pressures it generates. Due to the design nature of the Lee Case Trimmer, it must be used before the case is primed. When using the Lee Loader kit, it might be necessary to size the brass, and totally eject it from the sizing die, trim the brass and chamfer it, then prime the brass case in a separate operation, using only the priming base for this purpose.
The Lee Case Trimmer is a four-part tool which gives great flexibility by enabling the user to change caliber/cartridge application with only about a four-dollar investment.
Once the case trimmer is assembled, case trimming is simplicity defined!
Should trimming of cases be necessitated, chamfering the case mouth is also necessary. This step removes any burrs remaining after the case trimmer peels away excessive case-neck length. Too, it puts a slight inside bevel on the brass to facilitate bullet seating.
The tool.
The process.
Now, all our cases are cleaned, resized, trimmed, deburred, primed, expanded and flared, ready for the main event: loading with powder and projectile!
Included with every Lee Loader is a chart of caliber/cartridge specific loading data. This data correlates with the included volumetric powder measure included with the kit, and various combinations of bullets and powder, utilizing that volumetric measure for safe and effective powder charges when combined with the listed bullets.
The simple addition of at least one and preferably two handloading manuals gives a checks-and-balances aspect to your load selection. Too, more loading data is presented which, when combined with the Improved Lee Powder Measure Kit, will open greater variety of loading options to the handloader. Included with the Powder Measure Kit is a powder charge-weight slide-rule, that calibrates a given desired charge weight of selected powder into a volumetric value measured in cubic centimeters. The plastic measures in the Powder Measure Kit are also calibrated in cubic centimeters and thus selecting a desired powder charge is quite simple, match the volume of the measure to the necessary volume of powder to attain the target charge weight.
The Modern Reloading Second Edition manual by Richard Lee found listed in the chart at the beginning of this article, has a vast array of loading data, directly from the powder manufacturers, and organized by Lee into a format that centers around the use of the Lee Improved Powder Measure kit, and has most of the data listed not only in grains of powder by weight, but in volumetric measure in cubic centimeters to directly correlate with the values printed on their powder measures. By using this data, it is a simple matter for the budget-minded handloader to maximize the potential variety afforded by this effective system. Too this manual gives some excellent loading advice, instruction and cautionary information applicable to the novice and experienced handloader alike. It is a well worth-while addition to the basic repertoire of handloading resources, especially to the user of the Lee Loader.
In addition to the Modern Reloading Second Edition by Richard Lee, probably one of the next-best investments to the basic list of equipment is a copy of the Lyman 48th Edition Reloading Manual. The Lyman manual covers virtually all new cartridges while containing a wealth of articles addressing many facets of handloading from the most basic of operations, to fine tuning hunting handloads. The informative articles alone are worth the price of the manual..
Note that the selected load here utilizes a 255 grain lead bullet in the .45 Colt cartridge, and a charge of 6.7 grains of Winchester 231 Powder which should generate close to 835 feet per second out of a revolver. This load specifies a 0.5cc volume powder measure, note the corresponding markings on the measure, and the listing in the loading manual for this load. They match. This load selected from Modern Reloading Second Edition.
Here is the complete Improved Lee Powder Measure Kit. Note the various cc values listed with each measure. This simple kit expands the horizons of the basic Lee Loader in allowing a virtually unlimited selection of powders and bullet weight combinations for any given cartridge.
With the cases carefully prepared, bullet and powder selections determined, and careful double checking of powder charge weight and corresponding powder measure verified, everything is ready for the actual loading process.
Be sure to only have one powder measure out on the reloading bench at a time, and only one type of powder as well. Following this practice will safeguard against a possible mistake in powder charge weights due to a mix-up in powder measures, or a switch in powder types. Either of these errors can, and will mean the difference between a well balanced load that performs to expectations, and a disaster. Be safe, keep only one of each on the bench at any given time.
In the above photo take note of the open can of powder and measure. This is an empty pineapple can, but a tuna can or any other similarly shaped can will suffice for the purposes intended. Be careful of what container is selected, as some plastics generate considerable static electricity, and may possibly cause combustion of the powder contained therein from the static electricity! Play it safe and use a metal container.
Ideally the container used will hold no more than about a quarter-pound of powder at a time, as this amount is very manageable, and should it become somehow contaminated or spilled, it won’t ruin a loading session by spoiling or wasting an entire inventory of powder at once. Too, NEVER SMOKE WHEN HANDLOADING! Take smoke-breaks out of the loading room. This is especially true when dipping powder from an open container.
This brings the discussion to powder dispensing technique. Yes, as mentioned above, dipping is the correct term. The powder measure, or dipper, is pushed straight down into the powder, base first, until gunpowder flows over the edges or rim of the dipper and fills the cavity with powder. Then, once the measure is full it is lifted straight out of the powder container, and leveled off with the edge of a business card with a smooth, fluid sweeping motion. Even veteran handloaders might be surprised at the consistency of dipped powder charges. Using a repeatable consistent technique results in startlingly uniform charges of powder when using nothing more than volumetric powder measures. However, this uniformity is entirely dependent upon proper technique. NEVER, NEVER USE A POWDER DIPPER AS A SCOOP! Scooping these dippers through the powder causes wide variances in powder charge weights.
This article focuses on economical handloading beginnings. For this reason alone the equipment list is as brief as possible, and still provides necessities for loading accurate, safe and reliable ammunition. However, while calibrated powder dippers provide an excellent means of dispensing powder, there is really no substitute for a good quality reloading scale. Besides a second reloading manual, as mentioned earlier, a powder scale should be the next piece of equipment procured in the handloading arsenal of tools. Beyond weighing powder charges a scale serves other useful purposes, such as weighing bullets, cases, determining case capacity in grains of water, and even check weighing loaded rounds of ammo and comparing weights if it is suspected that a case might not have received a charge of powder, or perhaps a double charge. A simple means of accurate weight measurement is an essential part of the handloader’s tool collection.
In loading the prepared brass, the case must be placed upright in the decapping base, and the resizing die sitting on top of the base, the brass case resting inside the die. Then, carefully pour the properly leveled powder charge into the top of the loading die as shown in the photo below.
After dropping the powder charge into the case, then drop the appropriate bullet base-first into the top of the loading die as well. Then, using the concave end of the bullet seater/priming base unit, seat the bullet into the prepared and powder charged case with light taps from a non-marring hammer. In adjusting the seating stem for the proper seating depth, it is important to incrementally check the seating depth of the bullet into the case.
In the photo above, the bullet is not yet seated deeply enough in the case. In the photograph below, notice how the bullet is seated so that the brass case is just even with the top of the crimp groove. This seating depth will allow a nice, firm roll crimp of the case mouth into the crimping groove.
Once the bullet is seated to the proper depth in the case, adjust the seating stem lock-ring on the seating stem, jamming it up against the priming base, until it firmly locks the seating stem depth into place. From here on out, each and every bullet will be seated to the exact same depth without having to check each and every bullet as it is seated.
With the bullet properly seated in the case, a roll-type crimp is applied using the opposite end of the resizing die. Note the orientation of the die in the photo below. A few light taps with a hammer creates a nice tight roll crimp on the cartridge mouth into the bullet crimp groove.
Removing the die from the newly loaded round of ammunition reveals a nearly perfect roll-type crimp on this round of .45 Colt ammo.
People take different approaches to handloading, and with the Lee Loader is no exception to this in regard to methodology. While the steps remain the same, some people prefer to take one fired case from the very first step all the way through the process to a finished round of loaded ammunition before starting with another piece of brass.
I prefer to prep all my brass, up until the loading-stage in batches, meaning that all the brass gets decapped, then all cases cleaned and polished, and all cases lubed. Then in the next phase, all get sized and primer pockets cleaned and primers seated. Next all receive case neck expansion and flaring. Finally I like to charge the case, seat the bullet and crimp the case all in one series of steps on each cartridge in turn. In this way chances of double-charging a case are greatly diminished, if the powder is dropped, and a bullet seated as the next step.
Finally all the cases become loaded ammo.
Just because the mechanics of reloading the brass case are done, doesn’t mean the job is finished. Just as important as any step taken thus far, is the simple expedient task of boxing and labeling your handloaded ammunition. This information should include date of loading, powder type, charge weight, bullet type, weight and configuration, primer type and case type as well as approximate velocity. This is very important for both future reference, and for identifying similar looking loads at a later date in time. Especially if it is months, or perhaps years later that a box of ammunition is discovered that was loaded and put away, positive identification of the contents is essential. Don’t ever skip this step.
Labeling loaded ammo becomes increasingly important as experimentation with various powders and bullets progresses. One of the primary advantages in handloading is the ability to assemble ammunition with specialized projectiles, loads specifically tailored to hunting, or light plinking ammunition, to small game loads all for the same firearm. Remembering those combinations may become impossible without adequate documentation.
Actually describing the reloading process takes much longer than loading the ammunition. When utilizing the Lee Loader, turning out a box of fifty handloads for your handgun or rifle takes less than an hour once a system and routine are established. Once accustomed to the tools, it doesn’t take long to crank out enough ammo for an afternoon of plinking, or a season of hunting.
After the ammo is loaded, boxed and labeled, it’s time to make sure that powder is returned to the proper canister, loose unused primers re-boxed, all tools are returned to their respective cases, properly cleaned and a light coat of rust inhibitor applied to the loading tools if prolonged storage without use is anticipated. Even all the little accessory tools fit into the Lee Loader plastic box.
With all the work done, it’s time to test the new loads. Keeping a record of loading data, along with targets fired help not only identify good loads, but also prevents repeating a load that didn’t perform on par as well. Range time tells the tale.
This target was fired with the ammunition loaded in writing this article. The load: BTB .452”-255gWFNPB/6.7grains Winchester 231/WLPP/Mixed Brass. Range was 25 yards from a sandbag rest in a Ruger Stainless 4 5/8” barreled .45 Colt revolver. Ammo loaded with a $12.99 Lee Loader Kit in .45 Colt as pictured in this article. Great ammunition need not be costly, nor necessarily come out of costly equipment.
Half the fun of shooting is handloading. After you shoot, it’s time to do it all again!
Aside from a multitude of seemingly comparable products from which to choose, is the intimidating, if not seemingly insurmountable financial outlay before the prospective handloading newcomer. Reading current monthly firearms and handloading journals serves only to compound the confusion, as the writers penning articles promote only the latest and greatest of gear from the most prestigious manufacturers. As a consequence, the simplicity of handloading becomes lost amid a sea of bigger and more complex equipment costing more with each model change.
Unfortunately, this focus on bigger, better and more advanced equipment dissuades many newcomers to handloading, simply from financial constraints alone. The average prospective handloading neophyte centers his focus upon either cost savings in loaded ammo by rolling his own, or loading specialty rounds that are not commercially available over the counter. In either case, a casual interest in the pursuit of home-grown loads wanes in the face of exorbitant startup expenses of perceived necessities just to begin handloading.
The purpose of this article is two-fold. First to dispel the myth that handloading requires hundreds of dollars worth of equipment and vast expanses of bench-tops and storage space. Secondly, to demonstrate that even given the barest minimum investment, outstanding quality in handloaded ammunition is attainable with the simplest of tools.
While there are many other paths for the beginning handloader to begin the journey in this quest for quality excellence and economy in handloading, few will question the validity or wisdom in choosing the Classic Lee Loader kit as a centerpiece for beginning this journey. These tools have been in continuous production for more than thirty years, in a profusion of caliber choices during that period of time. It has always provided a practical, affordable, compact set of tools capable of turning fired brass into first class loaded ammunition when administered with judicious care and attention to detail.
The classic Lee Loader comes complete for one caliber, neatly contained in a compartmentalized plastic box with all the necessary tools (not including a non-marring hammer), comprehensive instructions and a concise, caliber specific table of loading data. While a casual first glance at these kits may not be impressive, the 1,000 yard world championship record group fired from a rifle, held for many years, was shot using ammunition loaded on one of these compact loading kits!
Moving on down the list of tools and equipment necessary for handloading, the list is pretty short in terms of immediate pure necessities, and as such preserves a fragile budget nicely. I’ll present both the list of equipment used in the preparation of this article, and a bare-bones pure necessity list in the chart below. Too, the actual purchase price of the equipment used in writing this article is listed in the chart, and the itemized tools were purchased over-the-counter in Spokane, Washington on 25 June 2004. Included for reference for both availability and price are three online suppliers and the prices posted on their websites dated 27 June 2004. Those blank places in the chart indicate that the listed item was not available from the supplier listed in the column. There are vast differences in pricing on most handloading equipment, so it does pay to shop around.
Equipment Used In Article (Prices as of June 2004)
Item Description Retail Spokane, WA Graf & Sons FactorySales.com Lock Stock & Barrel
Classic Lee Loader 12.99 15.99 14.95 14.50
Lee Chamfer Tool 1.99 2.69 2.88 2.35
Lee Case Trimmer & Lock Stud 2.99 4.39 3.49 3.75
Lee Case Length Gauge & Shell Holder 2.99 4.39 3.49 3.75
Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner 1.29 1.89 1.89 1.50
Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit 5.99 7.59 6.15
Modern Reloading 2nd Edition 14.99 13.99 27.50 11.75
Hornady One-Shot Case Lube 4.49 6.99 6.25
MTM Case Guard P50 Ammo Box .89 1.49 1.11
Total Cost 48.61 59.41
Bare-Bones Basics
Classic Lee Loader 12.99 15.99 14.95 14.50
Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner 1.29 1.89 1.89 1.50
Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit 5.99 7.59 6.15
Total Cost 20.27 25.47 22.99
Getting the financial aspect of this article aired-out early will dissipate uneasiness over the anticipated bottom line which always seems to loom at the end of every handloading article dealing with various aspects of reloading equipment. As evidenced from the chart above, obtaining everything used in preparation of this presentation costs less than $60 US. Too, if the budget is really strained, getting started may be done for about the cost of fifty factory loaded revolver cartridges!
While the bare-bones list will allow loading fired brass, and produce good loaded ammo, the expanded list offers more loading options and a margin of safety and convenience as well.
The workhorse of this array of tools is the classic Lee Loader, complete for a specific caliber.
In addition to the Lee Loader Kit, are a few more small accessory items, while optional, they can and do make the difference between a simple reload, and a crafted handload. In addition, should a person decide to move beyond the Lee Loader with a full-sized press and conventional dies, these accessories still fill a both useful and necessary niche. These items include a primer-pocket cleaning tool, case trimmer lock-stud and cutter, and case trimmer shell-holder and case-length gauge. A closer look at these accessory items as we come to their application in the handloading process will be presented.
Beginning the reloading process, the first step, after assembling your tools at a suitable workplace, and procuring a solid base for your loading tools is to decap the fired brass. This is accomplished by simply placing the fired brass case into the decapping die, shown below, and using the punch with the small diameter needle-like end, inserting this end into the brass case, through the flash-hole and then rapping lightly with a non-marring hammer on the decapping rod, thus popping the spent primer out of the case. By necessity, the primer must be removed from underneath the decapping base to allow a space for the primer from the next fired case when it too is decapped.
Note the surface used for all steps using the Lee Loader is nothing more than a piece of scrap 2”x 6” lumber placed on the table top. It serves the purpose well, and is both portable, and disposable, as over time the surface becomes quite pock-marked with use of the Lee Loader performing various steps necessary in the reloading process.
Once the fired brass cases are decapped, it becomes necessary to clean them prior to resizing. Cleaning the cases prevents surface grime, powder residue and other abrasive agents from scratching the interior surface of the reloading die. While this seems a trivial step, the purpose is not necessarily to enhance cosmetic appearances of the brass, but to protect the machined surfaces of the resizing die chamber. Simply use some #000 steel wool as shown in the photo below. It only takes a few seconds with a twisting motion to clean the brass of outer grime and residue.
Cleaning the now-empty primer pockets is best done at this stage of the operation as well. This is where one of those “optional accessory items” listed in the chart of tools and expenses really pays off! Cleaning carbon residue from the primer pockets insures uniform primer seating depth, and also mandates a visual inspection of the pocket and at a glance note the flash-hole is clear of any obstructions. Note the difference between the untouched and cleaned primer pockets below.
With both the exterior of the brass and the primer pockets clean, lubing the exterior surfaces of the case is necessary to prevent sticking in the resizing die. While there are a number of excellent products for this purpose, and any of them will suffice nicely, I choose to use Hornady One-Shot spray case lubricant for the purposes of this article. Many other options are available commercially, such as Imperial Sizing Die Wax, RCBS Case Lube, Lee Case Lube as well as home-brewed alternatives varying from dissolved Ivory Soap in water, to glycerin-based mixtures to plain-old kitchen paraffin applied to the brass to prevent sticking cases in the sizing die. Admittedly One-Shot is a somewhat more expensive case lubricant when compared with many of the other options. I simply like the performance, lack of mess and convenience of the Hornady spray product. Whatever option for the task used, at this point the cases must be lubricated prior to sizing.
Once the lube is applied to the deprimed and cleaned cases, they may be resized. The case is inserted into the die, as seen in the photograph below. Note the orientation of the sizing die when the brass is inserted for resizing.
Using a non-marring hammer, drive the case fully into the sizing die, so that the rim of the case is flush with the bottom of the sizing die. Some cartridges/calibers require much more force than others to accomplish this task.
The next step does two functions. First a new primer is seated into the clean primer pocket, and concurrently the case is partially extracted from the resizing die. Before conducting this phase of the operation, it is necessary to consult the reloading data to be used, to determine the correct primer for the selected load. Don’t be mislead, all primers are NOT the same. Many loads are very primer specific. Be sure, and not sorry.
Center a new primer, anvil-up in the priming base (the base with the bullet seating stem coming off the side and a spring loaded base in the center). Then, center the resizing die (containing the resized brass case) over the primer on the priming base. Then, using the long, blunt ended punch, drive the brass out of the sizing die chamber and onto the primer under it. After just a few rounds a “feel” for this process is attained, and the procedure goes quickly and smoothly once a routine is established.
Once the case is successfully primed, remove the sizing die from the priming base, and the case will protrude somewhat out of the die as seen below.
Center the sizing die over the decapping base, and using the blunt-end punch and a sharp rap from a non-marring hammer, eject the now resized and primed brass case from the sizing die body.
Leaving the brass case in the decapping body, use the expanding/flaring plug to expand and slightly flare the case mouth to accept a bullet. Actually very little force is necessary for this step, and light taps of the hammer are all that is needed. Excessive force here will only ruin cases by collapsing them. Don’t overdo a good thing!
Depending upon the cartridge, the number times the brass has been loaded, and the pressure intensity of those loads, the case may, and will stretch in length. This can cause a hazardous condition, and requires trimming brass to a uniform length both for uniformity of the loads, and safety as well. For this purpose the Lee Case Trimmer is included in the list of desirable equipment in the chart at the beginning of this article. The Lee tool greatly simplifies the process, and insures that each and every case is trimmed to a specific uniform length without necessitating the procurement of a costly dial caliper to measure brass. Usually brass only needs trimming every third to fifth reloading, depending upon the cartridge and pressures it generates. Due to the design nature of the Lee Case Trimmer, it must be used before the case is primed. When using the Lee Loader kit, it might be necessary to size the brass, and totally eject it from the sizing die, trim the brass and chamfer it, then prime the brass case in a separate operation, using only the priming base for this purpose.
The Lee Case Trimmer is a four-part tool which gives great flexibility by enabling the user to change caliber/cartridge application with only about a four-dollar investment.
Once the case trimmer is assembled, case trimming is simplicity defined!
Should trimming of cases be necessitated, chamfering the case mouth is also necessary. This step removes any burrs remaining after the case trimmer peels away excessive case-neck length. Too, it puts a slight inside bevel on the brass to facilitate bullet seating.
The tool.
The process.
Now, all our cases are cleaned, resized, trimmed, deburred, primed, expanded and flared, ready for the main event: loading with powder and projectile!
Included with every Lee Loader is a chart of caliber/cartridge specific loading data. This data correlates with the included volumetric powder measure included with the kit, and various combinations of bullets and powder, utilizing that volumetric measure for safe and effective powder charges when combined with the listed bullets.
The simple addition of at least one and preferably two handloading manuals gives a checks-and-balances aspect to your load selection. Too, more loading data is presented which, when combined with the Improved Lee Powder Measure Kit, will open greater variety of loading options to the handloader. Included with the Powder Measure Kit is a powder charge-weight slide-rule, that calibrates a given desired charge weight of selected powder into a volumetric value measured in cubic centimeters. The plastic measures in the Powder Measure Kit are also calibrated in cubic centimeters and thus selecting a desired powder charge is quite simple, match the volume of the measure to the necessary volume of powder to attain the target charge weight.
The Modern Reloading Second Edition manual by Richard Lee found listed in the chart at the beginning of this article, has a vast array of loading data, directly from the powder manufacturers, and organized by Lee into a format that centers around the use of the Lee Improved Powder Measure kit, and has most of the data listed not only in grains of powder by weight, but in volumetric measure in cubic centimeters to directly correlate with the values printed on their powder measures. By using this data, it is a simple matter for the budget-minded handloader to maximize the potential variety afforded by this effective system. Too this manual gives some excellent loading advice, instruction and cautionary information applicable to the novice and experienced handloader alike. It is a well worth-while addition to the basic repertoire of handloading resources, especially to the user of the Lee Loader.
In addition to the Modern Reloading Second Edition by Richard Lee, probably one of the next-best investments to the basic list of equipment is a copy of the Lyman 48th Edition Reloading Manual. The Lyman manual covers virtually all new cartridges while containing a wealth of articles addressing many facets of handloading from the most basic of operations, to fine tuning hunting handloads. The informative articles alone are worth the price of the manual..
Note that the selected load here utilizes a 255 grain lead bullet in the .45 Colt cartridge, and a charge of 6.7 grains of Winchester 231 Powder which should generate close to 835 feet per second out of a revolver. This load specifies a 0.5cc volume powder measure, note the corresponding markings on the measure, and the listing in the loading manual for this load. They match. This load selected from Modern Reloading Second Edition.
Here is the complete Improved Lee Powder Measure Kit. Note the various cc values listed with each measure. This simple kit expands the horizons of the basic Lee Loader in allowing a virtually unlimited selection of powders and bullet weight combinations for any given cartridge.
With the cases carefully prepared, bullet and powder selections determined, and careful double checking of powder charge weight and corresponding powder measure verified, everything is ready for the actual loading process.
Be sure to only have one powder measure out on the reloading bench at a time, and only one type of powder as well. Following this practice will safeguard against a possible mistake in powder charge weights due to a mix-up in powder measures, or a switch in powder types. Either of these errors can, and will mean the difference between a well balanced load that performs to expectations, and a disaster. Be safe, keep only one of each on the bench at any given time.
In the above photo take note of the open can of powder and measure. This is an empty pineapple can, but a tuna can or any other similarly shaped can will suffice for the purposes intended. Be careful of what container is selected, as some plastics generate considerable static electricity, and may possibly cause combustion of the powder contained therein from the static electricity! Play it safe and use a metal container.
Ideally the container used will hold no more than about a quarter-pound of powder at a time, as this amount is very manageable, and should it become somehow contaminated or spilled, it won’t ruin a loading session by spoiling or wasting an entire inventory of powder at once. Too, NEVER SMOKE WHEN HANDLOADING! Take smoke-breaks out of the loading room. This is especially true when dipping powder from an open container.
This brings the discussion to powder dispensing technique. Yes, as mentioned above, dipping is the correct term. The powder measure, or dipper, is pushed straight down into the powder, base first, until gunpowder flows over the edges or rim of the dipper and fills the cavity with powder. Then, once the measure is full it is lifted straight out of the powder container, and leveled off with the edge of a business card with a smooth, fluid sweeping motion. Even veteran handloaders might be surprised at the consistency of dipped powder charges. Using a repeatable consistent technique results in startlingly uniform charges of powder when using nothing more than volumetric powder measures. However, this uniformity is entirely dependent upon proper technique. NEVER, NEVER USE A POWDER DIPPER AS A SCOOP! Scooping these dippers through the powder causes wide variances in powder charge weights.
This article focuses on economical handloading beginnings. For this reason alone the equipment list is as brief as possible, and still provides necessities for loading accurate, safe and reliable ammunition. However, while calibrated powder dippers provide an excellent means of dispensing powder, there is really no substitute for a good quality reloading scale. Besides a second reloading manual, as mentioned earlier, a powder scale should be the next piece of equipment procured in the handloading arsenal of tools. Beyond weighing powder charges a scale serves other useful purposes, such as weighing bullets, cases, determining case capacity in grains of water, and even check weighing loaded rounds of ammo and comparing weights if it is suspected that a case might not have received a charge of powder, or perhaps a double charge. A simple means of accurate weight measurement is an essential part of the handloader’s tool collection.
In loading the prepared brass, the case must be placed upright in the decapping base, and the resizing die sitting on top of the base, the brass case resting inside the die. Then, carefully pour the properly leveled powder charge into the top of the loading die as shown in the photo below.
After dropping the powder charge into the case, then drop the appropriate bullet base-first into the top of the loading die as well. Then, using the concave end of the bullet seater/priming base unit, seat the bullet into the prepared and powder charged case with light taps from a non-marring hammer. In adjusting the seating stem for the proper seating depth, it is important to incrementally check the seating depth of the bullet into the case.
In the photo above, the bullet is not yet seated deeply enough in the case. In the photograph below, notice how the bullet is seated so that the brass case is just even with the top of the crimp groove. This seating depth will allow a nice, firm roll crimp of the case mouth into the crimping groove.
Once the bullet is seated to the proper depth in the case, adjust the seating stem lock-ring on the seating stem, jamming it up against the priming base, until it firmly locks the seating stem depth into place. From here on out, each and every bullet will be seated to the exact same depth without having to check each and every bullet as it is seated.
With the bullet properly seated in the case, a roll-type crimp is applied using the opposite end of the resizing die. Note the orientation of the die in the photo below. A few light taps with a hammer creates a nice tight roll crimp on the cartridge mouth into the bullet crimp groove.
Removing the die from the newly loaded round of ammunition reveals a nearly perfect roll-type crimp on this round of .45 Colt ammo.
People take different approaches to handloading, and with the Lee Loader is no exception to this in regard to methodology. While the steps remain the same, some people prefer to take one fired case from the very first step all the way through the process to a finished round of loaded ammunition before starting with another piece of brass.
I prefer to prep all my brass, up until the loading-stage in batches, meaning that all the brass gets decapped, then all cases cleaned and polished, and all cases lubed. Then in the next phase, all get sized and primer pockets cleaned and primers seated. Next all receive case neck expansion and flaring. Finally I like to charge the case, seat the bullet and crimp the case all in one series of steps on each cartridge in turn. In this way chances of double-charging a case are greatly diminished, if the powder is dropped, and a bullet seated as the next step.
Finally all the cases become loaded ammo.
Just because the mechanics of reloading the brass case are done, doesn’t mean the job is finished. Just as important as any step taken thus far, is the simple expedient task of boxing and labeling your handloaded ammunition. This information should include date of loading, powder type, charge weight, bullet type, weight and configuration, primer type and case type as well as approximate velocity. This is very important for both future reference, and for identifying similar looking loads at a later date in time. Especially if it is months, or perhaps years later that a box of ammunition is discovered that was loaded and put away, positive identification of the contents is essential. Don’t ever skip this step.
Labeling loaded ammo becomes increasingly important as experimentation with various powders and bullets progresses. One of the primary advantages in handloading is the ability to assemble ammunition with specialized projectiles, loads specifically tailored to hunting, or light plinking ammunition, to small game loads all for the same firearm. Remembering those combinations may become impossible without adequate documentation.
Actually describing the reloading process takes much longer than loading the ammunition. When utilizing the Lee Loader, turning out a box of fifty handloads for your handgun or rifle takes less than an hour once a system and routine are established. Once accustomed to the tools, it doesn’t take long to crank out enough ammo for an afternoon of plinking, or a season of hunting.
After the ammo is loaded, boxed and labeled, it’s time to make sure that powder is returned to the proper canister, loose unused primers re-boxed, all tools are returned to their respective cases, properly cleaned and a light coat of rust inhibitor applied to the loading tools if prolonged storage without use is anticipated. Even all the little accessory tools fit into the Lee Loader plastic box.
With all the work done, it’s time to test the new loads. Keeping a record of loading data, along with targets fired help not only identify good loads, but also prevents repeating a load that didn’t perform on par as well. Range time tells the tale.
This target was fired with the ammunition loaded in writing this article. The load: BTB .452”-255gWFNPB/6.7grains Winchester 231/WLPP/Mixed Brass. Range was 25 yards from a sandbag rest in a Ruger Stainless 4 5/8” barreled .45 Colt revolver. Ammo loaded with a $12.99 Lee Loader Kit in .45 Colt as pictured in this article. Great ammunition need not be costly, nor necessarily come out of costly equipment.
Half the fun of shooting is handloading. After you shoot, it’s time to do it all again!
LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die
LEE CASE MOUTH FLARING DIE
The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die is a very unique application for a reloading tool, and makes one wonder, “Why did it take so long for someone to think of designing a tool in this manner?”
Reloading a straight walled cartridge case; like the 45ACP or .357 Magnum, etc. requires a 3-die set. The first die resizes (reduces) the outer case walls. The second die flares the mouth. The case mouth must be flared so a new bullet can be started into the case. Without the case mouth being flared, the heel of the bullet would catch on the case mouth, crushing the case mouth. OK, what about bottleneck cases like the 30/06, 8X57, 7.62 NATO, 762X54R etc? They generally require a 2-die set.
I say generally because the die makers assume reloaders of bottleneck cases will be loading jacketed bullets. Of course the die makers know some will be using cast bullets. Against that purpose; most (but certainly not all) die makers also produce a case mouth flaring die, more on that later.
The reason a jacketed bullet doesn’t require a flaring die is; the expander ball passes thru the case neck as the case is withdrawn from the FL die. The expander ball brings the internal size of the case neck up to .001 below the size of the jacketed bullet. The jacketed bullet expands the case neck the last .001, and that is enough bullet grip for proper ignition, and complete burning of a normal powder charge. However, what if the reloader wants to use cast bullets, or is concerned the sides of the jacketed bullet may be scraped by the case mouth during the seating process?
Cast bullets are much softer then jacketed. The hardest cast bullet will have a Brinell hardness of 30; most are softer. Jacketed bullets have a Brinell hardness of 100. Attempting to seat a cast bullet in an un-flared case neck will damage the bullet.
Boat tail jacketed bullets will seat easily in an un-flared case neck, however, the parallel sides of the bullet can still be scrapped. Flat base bullets can get a lot of scrapping on the sides. De-burring the case mouth with tools for such purposes will help keep bullet damage to a minimum. However, excessive de-burring can weaken case mouths.
Most major reloading tool manufacturers have cataloged a flaring die for decades. Traditionally designed flaring dies all seem to have two features. They are caliber specific, and are of rigid construction. Additionally, one company makes flaring dies that are specified for either “long” or “short” cartridges within a caliber family. These dies work OK, but a new flaring die must be acquired for each caliber family. Being rigidity constructed, they can flare a case mouth off center if the press isn’t in perfect axial alignment.
Adjustment piece, small flaring plug, large flaring plug, die body
Small flaring plug & large flaring plug
LEE case mouth flaring die in top of press
Ready to flare a piece of brass
Unflared piece of brass, notice the bullet will not start into the case mouth
Flared piece of brass, notice the bullet will now start into the case mouth
The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die is a departure from traditional thinking and design. First, it is truly a “universal” die. Two flaring “plugs” are included, one large, one small. Between them, all calibers are covered. The plugs can float a bit once installed in the die body. Since they float, they will self-center in a case mouth; making sure both sides of the case mouth flare evenly.
It matters not whether one is flaring 7.62 NATO cases or 300 Winchester Magnum cases, there is plenty of adjustment in the LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die body. This one die covers all case lengths.
Need to switch flaring plugs? It’s the work of a minute to switch from flaring .38 Specials to flaring 45/70’s! The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die can be ordered from any web based or catalog supplier of reloading tools for about $10.00 + shipping.
The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die and LEE Decapping Die are two tools that I find indispensable. They should be on every reloader’s bench.
The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die is a very unique application for a reloading tool, and makes one wonder, “Why did it take so long for someone to think of designing a tool in this manner?”
Reloading a straight walled cartridge case; like the 45ACP or .357 Magnum, etc. requires a 3-die set. The first die resizes (reduces) the outer case walls. The second die flares the mouth. The case mouth must be flared so a new bullet can be started into the case. Without the case mouth being flared, the heel of the bullet would catch on the case mouth, crushing the case mouth. OK, what about bottleneck cases like the 30/06, 8X57, 7.62 NATO, 762X54R etc? They generally require a 2-die set.
I say generally because the die makers assume reloaders of bottleneck cases will be loading jacketed bullets. Of course the die makers know some will be using cast bullets. Against that purpose; most (but certainly not all) die makers also produce a case mouth flaring die, more on that later.
The reason a jacketed bullet doesn’t require a flaring die is; the expander ball passes thru the case neck as the case is withdrawn from the FL die. The expander ball brings the internal size of the case neck up to .001 below the size of the jacketed bullet. The jacketed bullet expands the case neck the last .001, and that is enough bullet grip for proper ignition, and complete burning of a normal powder charge. However, what if the reloader wants to use cast bullets, or is concerned the sides of the jacketed bullet may be scraped by the case mouth during the seating process?
Cast bullets are much softer then jacketed. The hardest cast bullet will have a Brinell hardness of 30; most are softer. Jacketed bullets have a Brinell hardness of 100. Attempting to seat a cast bullet in an un-flared case neck will damage the bullet.
Boat tail jacketed bullets will seat easily in an un-flared case neck, however, the parallel sides of the bullet can still be scrapped. Flat base bullets can get a lot of scrapping on the sides. De-burring the case mouth with tools for such purposes will help keep bullet damage to a minimum. However, excessive de-burring can weaken case mouths.
Most major reloading tool manufacturers have cataloged a flaring die for decades. Traditionally designed flaring dies all seem to have two features. They are caliber specific, and are of rigid construction. Additionally, one company makes flaring dies that are specified for either “long” or “short” cartridges within a caliber family. These dies work OK, but a new flaring die must be acquired for each caliber family. Being rigidity constructed, they can flare a case mouth off center if the press isn’t in perfect axial alignment.
Adjustment piece, small flaring plug, large flaring plug, die body
Small flaring plug & large flaring plug
LEE case mouth flaring die in top of press
Ready to flare a piece of brass
Unflared piece of brass, notice the bullet will not start into the case mouth
Flared piece of brass, notice the bullet will now start into the case mouth
The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die is a departure from traditional thinking and design. First, it is truly a “universal” die. Two flaring “plugs” are included, one large, one small. Between them, all calibers are covered. The plugs can float a bit once installed in the die body. Since they float, they will self-center in a case mouth; making sure both sides of the case mouth flare evenly.
It matters not whether one is flaring 7.62 NATO cases or 300 Winchester Magnum cases, there is plenty of adjustment in the LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die body. This one die covers all case lengths.
Need to switch flaring plugs? It’s the work of a minute to switch from flaring .38 Specials to flaring 45/70’s! The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die can be ordered from any web based or catalog supplier of reloading tools for about $10.00 + shipping.
The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die and LEE Decapping Die are two tools that I find indispensable. They should be on every reloader’s bench.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Forster Tap-O-Cap
>> Forster Tap-O-Cap :: By J. Marshall Stanton on 2002-02-16
Print This Open Sight | Share This Open Sight
In this age of “New And Improved”, a move pervading blackpowder-shooting trends is for more fire, and hotter ignition systems. Although functionally superior, especially in high humidity, low temperature conditions, these new super-ignition systems aren’t always needed, or possible. Too there remains amongst blue-smoke shooters, a persistent independent streak that yearns for simplicity and self-reliance. Towards this latter end I write.
Although not new on the market, the Forster Tap-O-Cap enjoys limited retail distribution, and little or no current press. After all, old news doesn’t sell new magazines! The truth is, some older products are indeed news to a generation newly entering the shooting sports. I’ve been using the pictured Tap-O-Cap for at least ten years, with superb success, and exceptionally dependable ignition.
Now, what is a Tap-O-Cap? It is simply an ingeniously designed die and punch tool-set marketed along with what amounts to a modified paper punch for the express purpose of making your own No.11 percussion caps for black powder arms. The skirts for the percussion cap are formed by the die from aluminum beverage cans, and the priming medium from toy caps for a child’s cap-pistol. Simplistic? Perhaps, but it is very effective, easy to make and economical.
Using scissors or shears, cut an aluminum beverage can around both top and bottom, then cut the remaining cylinder top to bottom. This will produce a flat piece of aluminum from which to cut strips about ½” wide. These strips feed into a horizontal slot in the die body, from which the percussion cap skirt is formed. A punch assembly, hollow in the center, and having a serrated end, is inserted into the die, then struck with a wooden or plastic mallet. This hollow punch assembly cuts out a round piece of aluminum from the strip inserted into the die body, and in the same motion, forms the skirt over a tapered mandrel in the bottom of the die as the punch reaches the bottom of the stroke. The tapered mandrel of the die body correctly forms the percussion cap skirt, and shoves the finished skirt up, into the hollow portion of the punch assembly, whereby the finished skirt is ejected through the top of the punch as finished skirts are progressively shoved through the hollow core.
The priming agent for these homegrown percussion caps, are derived from kid’s toy caps. The tool included for this step appears as an ordinary paper punch, which it is, just with a very specific size punch. This punch is perfectly sized such that the resulting punch-outs fit snugly inside the aluminum percussion cap skirts, and coinciding roughly with the diameter of a typical priming charge in a roll of caps manufactured for repeating cap-guns.
Selection of toy caps is all-important when determining the reliability of the percussion cap. In today’s politically correct toy departments and toy stores, toy caps are frequently a scarce resource, much less finding any selection to choose from. The pictured American West brand of caps from Tootsietoy, are reliable performers, with concentrated priming charges in very consistent, well shaped spots on the roll-caps. The amount and intensity of these priming charges has proven to be exceedingly consistent from package to package.
There are other brands I have used in the past, most of which were made in Taiwan, and have proven superior to all others, however their availability at this time is unknown, and I’m still working on a large supply of them purchased seven or eight years ago from a variety store going out of business locally. If several brands are available, by all means try them all, and select the most consistent, and hottest caps from them.
Forster includes a small wooden dowel properly sized for inserting punched-out cap priming circles into the formed aluminum skirt of the percussion caps. For my purposes, I prefer just to grind the point from a sixteen-penny framing nail, and using the blunt ended nail to seat caps into the skirt. These priming charges must be firmly seated to the bottom of the skirts for reliable ignition. While one charge may be adequate, I’ve always enjoyed the utmost of reliability in these homemade percussion caps when two priming charges are inserted into each skirt instead of one. Interestingly, I’ve found no help in ignition by the addition of yet another charge, making three caps per skirt, as opposed to just the two mentioned above. On the down-side it seems that the third priming charge takes up too much internal space in the aluminum skirt, and impairs the seating of the percussion cap on standard No.11 nipples.
Now, about performance: I’ve used these percussion caps exclusively on my cap-and-ball revolvers for many, many years, and have found them totally reliable while contributing some of the very best accuracy ever achieved with these fine guns. As an added bonus, these homemade percussion caps, because they have slightly tapered skirts, fit the nipples, especially on these revolvers much more tightly than commercial percussion caps. This equates to nearly zero incidences of percussion caps coming off nipples due to recoil during firing! In long guns, I’ve found performance to be on a par with RWS and CCI percussion caps, when proper toy caps are obtained for this use. However, the shooting I do with muzzle-loaders and cap-and-ball revolvers is done 100% with black powder, usually FFFg. Using traditional black powder, these caps give complete reliability, however, if employed in lighting-off Pyrodex, Clean-Shot, or Black Canyon powders, the reliability issue of ignition is dubious at best, especially in humid or extremely cold conditions. But then again, if you’re using homemade percussion caps, you’re probably too much of a purist for substitute powders.
While not widely advertised, nor widely distributed, the Forster Tap-O-Cap is an outstanding tool of ageless durability, and adds an interesting wrinkle in the already time-consuming pursuit of muzzle loading!
To purchase the Forster Tap-O-Cap, we know of only one online retailer consistently stocking this item, Midsouth Shooter’s Supply, the link below will take you directly to this item on their shopping cart:
Print This Open Sight | Share This Open Sight
In this age of “New And Improved”, a move pervading blackpowder-shooting trends is for more fire, and hotter ignition systems. Although functionally superior, especially in high humidity, low temperature conditions, these new super-ignition systems aren’t always needed, or possible. Too there remains amongst blue-smoke shooters, a persistent independent streak that yearns for simplicity and self-reliance. Towards this latter end I write.
Although not new on the market, the Forster Tap-O-Cap enjoys limited retail distribution, and little or no current press. After all, old news doesn’t sell new magazines! The truth is, some older products are indeed news to a generation newly entering the shooting sports. I’ve been using the pictured Tap-O-Cap for at least ten years, with superb success, and exceptionally dependable ignition.
Now, what is a Tap-O-Cap? It is simply an ingeniously designed die and punch tool-set marketed along with what amounts to a modified paper punch for the express purpose of making your own No.11 percussion caps for black powder arms. The skirts for the percussion cap are formed by the die from aluminum beverage cans, and the priming medium from toy caps for a child’s cap-pistol. Simplistic? Perhaps, but it is very effective, easy to make and economical.
Using scissors or shears, cut an aluminum beverage can around both top and bottom, then cut the remaining cylinder top to bottom. This will produce a flat piece of aluminum from which to cut strips about ½” wide. These strips feed into a horizontal slot in the die body, from which the percussion cap skirt is formed. A punch assembly, hollow in the center, and having a serrated end, is inserted into the die, then struck with a wooden or plastic mallet. This hollow punch assembly cuts out a round piece of aluminum from the strip inserted into the die body, and in the same motion, forms the skirt over a tapered mandrel in the bottom of the die as the punch reaches the bottom of the stroke. The tapered mandrel of the die body correctly forms the percussion cap skirt, and shoves the finished skirt up, into the hollow portion of the punch assembly, whereby the finished skirt is ejected through the top of the punch as finished skirts are progressively shoved through the hollow core.
The priming agent for these homegrown percussion caps, are derived from kid’s toy caps. The tool included for this step appears as an ordinary paper punch, which it is, just with a very specific size punch. This punch is perfectly sized such that the resulting punch-outs fit snugly inside the aluminum percussion cap skirts, and coinciding roughly with the diameter of a typical priming charge in a roll of caps manufactured for repeating cap-guns.
Selection of toy caps is all-important when determining the reliability of the percussion cap. In today’s politically correct toy departments and toy stores, toy caps are frequently a scarce resource, much less finding any selection to choose from. The pictured American West brand of caps from Tootsietoy, are reliable performers, with concentrated priming charges in very consistent, well shaped spots on the roll-caps. The amount and intensity of these priming charges has proven to be exceedingly consistent from package to package.
There are other brands I have used in the past, most of which were made in Taiwan, and have proven superior to all others, however their availability at this time is unknown, and I’m still working on a large supply of them purchased seven or eight years ago from a variety store going out of business locally. If several brands are available, by all means try them all, and select the most consistent, and hottest caps from them.
Forster includes a small wooden dowel properly sized for inserting punched-out cap priming circles into the formed aluminum skirt of the percussion caps. For my purposes, I prefer just to grind the point from a sixteen-penny framing nail, and using the blunt ended nail to seat caps into the skirt. These priming charges must be firmly seated to the bottom of the skirts for reliable ignition. While one charge may be adequate, I’ve always enjoyed the utmost of reliability in these homemade percussion caps when two priming charges are inserted into each skirt instead of one. Interestingly, I’ve found no help in ignition by the addition of yet another charge, making three caps per skirt, as opposed to just the two mentioned above. On the down-side it seems that the third priming charge takes up too much internal space in the aluminum skirt, and impairs the seating of the percussion cap on standard No.11 nipples.
Now, about performance: I’ve used these percussion caps exclusively on my cap-and-ball revolvers for many, many years, and have found them totally reliable while contributing some of the very best accuracy ever achieved with these fine guns. As an added bonus, these homemade percussion caps, because they have slightly tapered skirts, fit the nipples, especially on these revolvers much more tightly than commercial percussion caps. This equates to nearly zero incidences of percussion caps coming off nipples due to recoil during firing! In long guns, I’ve found performance to be on a par with RWS and CCI percussion caps, when proper toy caps are obtained for this use. However, the shooting I do with muzzle-loaders and cap-and-ball revolvers is done 100% with black powder, usually FFFg. Using traditional black powder, these caps give complete reliability, however, if employed in lighting-off Pyrodex, Clean-Shot, or Black Canyon powders, the reliability issue of ignition is dubious at best, especially in humid or extremely cold conditions. But then again, if you’re using homemade percussion caps, you’re probably too much of a purist for substitute powders.
While not widely advertised, nor widely distributed, the Forster Tap-O-Cap is an outstanding tool of ageless durability, and adds an interesting wrinkle in the already time-consuming pursuit of muzzle loading!
To purchase the Forster Tap-O-Cap, we know of only one online retailer consistently stocking this item, Midsouth Shooter’s Supply, the link below will take you directly to this item on their shopping cart:
Converting Berdan primed brass to use Boxer primers.
Converting Berdan primed brass to use Boxer primers.
By: M. Chandler
Berdan primed brass from Europe and Asia is difficult to deprime and reload. Here is a procedure for converting the brass to accept Boxer primers common to American reloaders. This project is done using 7.5 x 55 Swiss cartridges for the K-31 rifle, that take a standard .308" bullet. The integral anvil must be removed and a center flash hole drilled. A 5C collet fixture is handy for holding the brass, or a homemade clamping fixture should not be difficult to make.
You can't easily drill this anvil out as the drill will run off and damage the wall. You could locate the fixture under the spindle and plunge an end mill to cut it. I simply made a .214" dia. cutter from a gage pin that would cut on the end only. Easy to do with a Dremal tool. Two negative rake (for brass) cutting edges just like a drill and relieved behind the cutting edge. The smooth outside wall will not cut and the edge being flat doesn't push off center.
As you can see, the tool cut the anvil out nicely without more than burnishing the pocket wall.
Then you need to make a center mark on the flat bottom of the pocket for the small thru flash hole. A regular #3 drill will do fine if you are careful to bring it down without hitting the sides hard.
Then a .076 drill was run all the way through and deburred on both sides.
If you run these through your reloading equipment make sure the hole is big enough for your depriming rod. Notice the two flash holes from the Berdan primed pocket are off center. I'd simply ignore them. The pocket should be plenty strong. So we have a primer pocket ready for a Boxer primer but it is still too big at about .216" dia. as the .210" Boxer primer would just fall out. We could solder or thread or glue a sleeve in, but why not just squash the edge in? We call that swaging or cold forming. A ball bearing will push a ridge in and down.
You must support the web of the cartridge from inside. If you have a very rigid work bench you could drive the ball with a hammer, or you could use an arbor press or a hydraulic press. I decided just to give a vise a try. It did not move quite enough metal so I put a c-clamp over the outside and that gave me enough pressure. I didn't photograph using the C-clamp.
I marked the brass with a felt tip so you could see the shiny area where the metal was moved. This will be a ridge smaller than the diameter needed.
We need a rather exact fit to press a primer in. I ran a .209 gage pin into the pocket to counter swag the hole. Just to make sure I also ran a .209 reamer in too. It accepted a Boxer primer with a good fit.
Obviously the primer is held by a ridge rather than a straight wall. That made me concerned it might loosen after a single shot. So to test I transferred a powder charge from a commercial round to the GP11 brass and loaded a 180 grain Speer flat nose bullet. The volume of the Swiss brass is less than commercial brass. That combined with the heavier bullet should make sure the pressure was at least as much as the military surplus ammo. After firing the primer was tight and did not push out easily by hand with a pin.
As with any handloading operation, this is only a general outline. You are responsible for your own safety to qualify every component and measure as every combination of brass, powder, and propellant is unique and potentially hazardous. Experimental modifications like this are not something I'd recommend unless you are well experienced and knowledgeable in all the aspects of hand loading. Consider doing a similar program entirely at your own risk As they say, "Your mileage may vary." How many times a piece of brass can be loaded after this work at standard pressures I have no idea, nor have I tried this sort of modification in other calibers. I intend to use the brass for light loads so I may never collect that data.
By: M. Chandler
Berdan primed brass from Europe and Asia is difficult to deprime and reload. Here is a procedure for converting the brass to accept Boxer primers common to American reloaders. This project is done using 7.5 x 55 Swiss cartridges for the K-31 rifle, that take a standard .308" bullet. The integral anvil must be removed and a center flash hole drilled. A 5C collet fixture is handy for holding the brass, or a homemade clamping fixture should not be difficult to make.
You can't easily drill this anvil out as the drill will run off and damage the wall. You could locate the fixture under the spindle and plunge an end mill to cut it. I simply made a .214" dia. cutter from a gage pin that would cut on the end only. Easy to do with a Dremal tool. Two negative rake (for brass) cutting edges just like a drill and relieved behind the cutting edge. The smooth outside wall will not cut and the edge being flat doesn't push off center.
As you can see, the tool cut the anvil out nicely without more than burnishing the pocket wall.
Then you need to make a center mark on the flat bottom of the pocket for the small thru flash hole. A regular #3 drill will do fine if you are careful to bring it down without hitting the sides hard.
Then a .076 drill was run all the way through and deburred on both sides.
If you run these through your reloading equipment make sure the hole is big enough for your depriming rod. Notice the two flash holes from the Berdan primed pocket are off center. I'd simply ignore them. The pocket should be plenty strong. So we have a primer pocket ready for a Boxer primer but it is still too big at about .216" dia. as the .210" Boxer primer would just fall out. We could solder or thread or glue a sleeve in, but why not just squash the edge in? We call that swaging or cold forming. A ball bearing will push a ridge in and down.
You must support the web of the cartridge from inside. If you have a very rigid work bench you could drive the ball with a hammer, or you could use an arbor press or a hydraulic press. I decided just to give a vise a try. It did not move quite enough metal so I put a c-clamp over the outside and that gave me enough pressure. I didn't photograph using the C-clamp.
I marked the brass with a felt tip so you could see the shiny area where the metal was moved. This will be a ridge smaller than the diameter needed.
We need a rather exact fit to press a primer in. I ran a .209 gage pin into the pocket to counter swag the hole. Just to make sure I also ran a .209 reamer in too. It accepted a Boxer primer with a good fit.
Obviously the primer is held by a ridge rather than a straight wall. That made me concerned it might loosen after a single shot. So to test I transferred a powder charge from a commercial round to the GP11 brass and loaded a 180 grain Speer flat nose bullet. The volume of the Swiss brass is less than commercial brass. That combined with the heavier bullet should make sure the pressure was at least as much as the military surplus ammo. After firing the primer was tight and did not push out easily by hand with a pin.
As with any handloading operation, this is only a general outline. You are responsible for your own safety to qualify every component and measure as every combination of brass, powder, and propellant is unique and potentially hazardous. Experimental modifications like this are not something I'd recommend unless you are well experienced and knowledgeable in all the aspects of hand loading. Consider doing a similar program entirely at your own risk As they say, "Your mileage may vary." How many times a piece of brass can be loaded after this work at standard pressures I have no idea, nor have I tried this sort of modification in other calibers. I intend to use the brass for light loads so I may never collect that data.
Monday, January 26, 2009
22lr bullet mold
Anyone have any idea if there is a mold for 22lr bullets maybe slightly heavier weights, the base needs to be reduced diameter. Id like to find something.
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Sunday, January 25, 2009
Wax Bullets for Indoor Shooting
Wax Bullets for Indoor Shooting
Want to shoot your Makarov indoors or in the backyard without freaking out the neighbors? Try casting your own wax bullets, then use a primer-only case to shoot them.
Don't Want to Cast Your Own?
We also carry X-ring rubber bullet sets. The only downside is that you need to recover the rubber bullets, clean them and reuse them. See the On-Line Shopping Cart Makarov Page for how to order.
Here's how to mold them:
Get a Lee Makarov bullet mold - Midway carries them and we might look into offering them.
Melt some candle wax from old candle stubs in a double boiler made of an old pot filled partially with water and a tin can as the inside pot. You don't need much and it's more efficient if you only melt a little at a time.
Pour the wax into the mold. If there's a top sprue plate, move it aside and pour directly into the mold. Then move the shield into place while the wax is still liquid. I found I didn't need to lube the molds for the bullets to drop free later.
Wait about 1 minute...this time becomes longer as the mold metal warms up and it takes longer to solidify. An ice water bath will compensate for that and increase your casting rate.
Open the mold and push the bullets out. Be careful not to put too much pressure on them yet or they'll deform. Put them in the fridge to completely cool, especially in hot weather.
Here's how to shoot them:
Take the appropriate brass and run it through the resizer/decapper and reprime the case. Run the case through the belling die being careful not to open it up too far.
Be sure the belling stage did not drop any powder into the case. You want the primer only.
Push the wax bullet into the case. Make sure you don't seat it to far. Since more bullet molds oversize the bullets in anticipation of a bullet sizing operation, the bullet should not go that deep. Make up a few more rounds this way.
Spritz the bore with a quick lubricant like WD-40 to minimize "waxing." This should be done every few rounds.
Put on eye and ear protection.
Chamber the round, aim and fire. This will not cycle the slide, so you'll have to eject each case separately.
Notes:
Follow all accepted safety rules. Wax ammo does not make your gun a toy and should never be fired at people or animals! OK, you can shoot cockroaches. :-) Furthermore, penetration is still considerable at short ranges (mine puncture 6 layers of Priority Mail box cardboard).
When shooting indoors, be sure you have proper ventilation. The fumes from primers are not good for you and will, at the least, give you a headache.
When you're all done, be sure to give the barrel a good scrubbing to make sure no buildup will cause problems at the range using real ammo.
Pictures:
Hover over pictures for captions
Want to shoot your Makarov indoors or in the backyard without freaking out the neighbors? Try casting your own wax bullets, then use a primer-only case to shoot them.
Don't Want to Cast Your Own?
We also carry X-ring rubber bullet sets. The only downside is that you need to recover the rubber bullets, clean them and reuse them. See the On-Line Shopping Cart Makarov Page for how to order.
Here's how to mold them:
Get a Lee Makarov bullet mold - Midway carries them and we might look into offering them.
Melt some candle wax from old candle stubs in a double boiler made of an old pot filled partially with water and a tin can as the inside pot. You don't need much and it's more efficient if you only melt a little at a time.
Pour the wax into the mold. If there's a top sprue plate, move it aside and pour directly into the mold. Then move the shield into place while the wax is still liquid. I found I didn't need to lube the molds for the bullets to drop free later.
Wait about 1 minute...this time becomes longer as the mold metal warms up and it takes longer to solidify. An ice water bath will compensate for that and increase your casting rate.
Open the mold and push the bullets out. Be careful not to put too much pressure on them yet or they'll deform. Put them in the fridge to completely cool, especially in hot weather.
Here's how to shoot them:
Take the appropriate brass and run it through the resizer/decapper and reprime the case. Run the case through the belling die being careful not to open it up too far.
Be sure the belling stage did not drop any powder into the case. You want the primer only.
Push the wax bullet into the case. Make sure you don't seat it to far. Since more bullet molds oversize the bullets in anticipation of a bullet sizing operation, the bullet should not go that deep. Make up a few more rounds this way.
Spritz the bore with a quick lubricant like WD-40 to minimize "waxing." This should be done every few rounds.
Put on eye and ear protection.
Chamber the round, aim and fire. This will not cycle the slide, so you'll have to eject each case separately.
Notes:
Follow all accepted safety rules. Wax ammo does not make your gun a toy and should never be fired at people or animals! OK, you can shoot cockroaches. :-) Furthermore, penetration is still considerable at short ranges (mine puncture 6 layers of Priority Mail box cardboard).
When shooting indoors, be sure you have proper ventilation. The fumes from primers are not good for you and will, at the least, give you a headache.
When you're all done, be sure to give the barrel a good scrubbing to make sure no buildup will cause problems at the range using real ammo.
Pictures:
Hover over pictures for captions
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