Gluelits casting procedure

It took a little bit of experimenting, but here's where I landed.

I start by spraying the mold LIGHTLY with WD-40. The primary areas of interest are the cavity and both sides of the sprue plate. If you notice any excess of spray, dab it off with a Q-tip or the like. Excess lube will accumulate in the cavity and cause dimples in the cast. Like Brylcream, a little dab'll do ya'.
Close the sprue plate on the mold and stick the gun nozzle in the sprue plate hole. When you start pumping the glue into the cavity, get it in there fast. You can only push the gun so fast, but don't mess around and DON'T stop in the middle of an injection. If you do, just figure that one's a failed cast. Keep a tight grip on the mold handles and keep a light pressure on the sprue plate with the nozzle of the gun. When the cavity fills, you'll feel the glue trying to back the gun nozzle away from the mold. Let the gun nozzle back out with the hydraulic pressure and hit the gun AGAIN. You'll need a LARGE sprue on the sprue plate to avoid a suck-back cavity in the gluelit. I found that a sprue about 1/2" in diameter and about 1/4" high works well. Set the gun down and hold the mold level for a minute or so. You can actually see the excess glue being sucked into the cavity because of the cast cooling and shrinking. Whe the suck-back stops, the sprue is set up enough that it won't drip. Dip the mold in a coffee can half full of cool water and slosh it around. This reduces the temperature of the cast quickly and enables you to remove the gluelit almost immediately.
Swing the sprue plate open just as you would in casting a lead boolit. Pick the sprue off the plate with a tweezer or hemostat. This is easily done IF you lubed the sprue plate. Open the mold slowly. The gluelit is still soft at this point and I found that it helps to dunk the open mold in the water again at this point to remove the last of the remaining heat in the gluelit. Touch test the gluelit for hardness. After a few tries, you'll figure out just what it needs to feels like to pull the cast from the cavity without distorting or damaging the cast.
If you hold the gluelit up infront of a bright light, you can see through it just like looking at an X-ray. If there's a suck-back cavity in the back of the cast, you'll see it very clearly. It'll be shaped like a light bulb. If you're a purist, you'll decom that one and use more glue in the sprue. If this doesn't matter, lay it aside to cool and cure and go again.
You'll have to experiment with how often to lube the cavity. I'm finding that every other cast is about right, but this may vary from mold to mold and user to user.
Avoid handling the gluelits until they are CURED. This should be about an hour or so. They'll harden and turn milky like the base material is in stick form.

Next step for R&D is gluelit lubing. This ain't as simple as you might think. However, if anybody has any CONCRETE evidence to contribute, please do so. As for "what if you........", keep in mind the physics requirements here are beyond a window that nobody has ever looked through.

See y'all soon. I'm knockin' off an' goin' shootin' for awhile.

Jim

[more comments in the thread]